From smiling through pictures, crying during the ceremony, sweating from tearing up the dance floor, and of course unpredictable weather, makeup staying put is one of the biggest beauty musts for a bride on her wedding day.
At a recent First Monday Class at Makeup First School of Makeup Artistry, presented by Cosmetologists Chicago, makeup artist Jill Glaser demonstrated and walked fellow makeup artists through the art of durable makeup.
Prepare the skin: Note your client’s skin type during the trial. Depending on the season, you may focus on dry skin (winter) and oil control (summer). For dry skin, encourage the bride to exfoliate regularly and then use a facial oil and moisturizer after washing her face with a creamy cleanser at night.
“The night before the wedding, in any season, recommend that your bridge use a brightening or moisturizing face mask,” Glaser says. On the day of, address oil issues by applying a mattifyer on those areas.
Eye Shadow: “For a long-lasting eye makeup application, the lid, from lash line to brow, should be prepped with a cream,” Glaser says. “Set this with a powder that is somewhat lighter in color than the skin. The layers of shadow will have more staying power if they sit on top of a prepped eye.” Glaser adds working in layers will increase the longevity of the shadow.
Eye Liner: Glaser says nothing beats Ingot Gel liner for a liner that will not budge. For a softer look, she advises to use black liner on the upper lash line and a brown liner on the lower.
Color Correcting: Color correction is all about remembering your basic color theory on the color wheel. "To treat any redness, due to harsh winter winds, sun damage, or acne, we recommend applying, where necessary, the color green," Glaser says. If the bride has dark shadows under the eyes in a blue or purple cast, use a brightening corrector or peach color to neutralize the shadow, followed by a concealer.
Face: Use a silicone-based primer or one with some shimmer for a radiant glow. When selecting a foundation, Glaser says to remember the camera takes out lots of color from the face, so don’t be afraid of adding a bit more color than the bride’s natural tone. As for the formula, use a wax or silicone-based foundation for longevity and durability. Wax goes into the skin, while silicone-based sits on top of it. “Both wax and silicone, by their chemical nature, are waterproof, and have a high melting point,” Glaser says. “Both are flattering on all skin tones and types.”
Before setting the foundation, apply a cream blush with your fingers so you are able to feel the bride's cheekbones. Layer liquid, then cream highlighter before setting with a powder highlighter. "Finally, using a powder puff, set the foundation with a colorless translucent setting powder," Glaser says. Set the face with an ultra-fine mist of an alcohol-based setting spray.