MAKEOVER: Double Process Platinum to Medium Brown

Kate has been a double process platinum blonde for about four years and was finally ready to go dark.

"Her main concern was going too dark,” says Carissa Castiglia (@colorbymisscariss) a master colorist at Eva Scrivo Salons in NYC and educator at the Eva Scrivo Academy. “My concern was getting it to accept pigment without being shallow, since it's so purely white."

According to Castiglia, it’s important to dry the hair in between each step to properly assess the hair. She adds, “To ensure an even corrective color outcome, each section will require a separate formula due to the porosity of the hair.”

Here the artist shares the details for this dramatic transformation:

Step 1: Work on dry hair. To fill, apply Goldwell Colorance 8G from line of demarcation to ends. Process for 25 minutes. “Make sure to keep the color only on the midshaft and through the ends. Touching the root will add unwanted gold.” Rinse, shampoo, condition and then dry the hair.

Step 2: Fill the hair again using Goldwell Colorance  7KG (copper/gold). Apply from off root to the ends. Process 25 minutes. Rinse, shampoo, condition and dry the hair. 

Step 3: To the root apply Goldwell TopChic 6N + 10 volume. Process for 10 minutes but do not rinse. Then apply from off root to ends Goldwell TopChic 1/2 6G + 1/2 6K with 15 volume developer. Process for a total of 30 minutes. Shampoo and towel dry. 

Step 4: Glaze to seal the cuticle with Goldwell Colorance 6G (level 6 gold) for 25 minutes.

Step 5: Detangle with the Classic Wet Brush and blow dry with a Hot Tools blow dryer. Wave with the Hot Tools Curl bar 1" to add some movement to the hair.