The Fundamentals of Eyebrow Extensions - Trend or Sticking Around?

The Fundamentals of Eyebrow Extensions & Brow Restoration class at America's Beauty Show taught attendees the composition of natural eyebrows and brow growth cycles, how to shape eyebrows, tint eyebrows and it provided an in-depth understanding of eyebrow application techniques.

The class kicked off with an explanation of eyebrow hair. “The purpose of eyebrows are to keep sweat and debris from the eye area,” says Nicole Flevaris, The Lashe Inc. “As we age, we naturally lose the hair on the edges. Eyebrow hair has a different growth cycle than other hair on our body, because it’s non-hormonal hair. It can even take up to an entire year for eyebrow hair to grow back.”

Because eyebrow hair is non-hormonal, Flevaris says that over plucking or waxing can exhaust the hair follicle. Other reasons for eyebrow loss can stem from chemotherapy, Alopecia, Tricalomania, thyroid issues, medication or age/stress.

The eyebrow extension trend picked up traction three years ago, ever since fuller eyebrows became the new thing. All eyebrow extensions are the same though; they’re usually made of synthetic materials, plastic, polyester, PBT and they are flat. “If you like fine detail work, this may be a good add-on service for your salon,” says Flevaris.

So who are prime candidates for eyebrow extensions? Clients who have lost a lot of hair or are simply looking for a fuller look. “My services start at $200 for brow restoration, which takes about an hour to an hour and a half.”

When applying eyebrow extensions, Flevaris recommends following your client’s natural growth pattern. "Every individual is unique. European versus Asian eyebrows can be very different from each other," she says. "All eyebrows do have one thing in common, everyone has at least two growth directions. “No one is bilaterally symmetrical. Your client’s eyebrow will tell you what it wants to do."

Getting Started:

  • You need to have space around you, an adjustable table, chair and work area.
  • Conduct proper positioning while seated.
  • Conduct a proper client orientation and adjust head positioning.
  • Learn proper hand positioning.
  • Use a hydraulic bed and an adjustable chair.

Prepping the Brows:

  • Decide on a shape and design with the client.
  • Are you shaping the brows and/or tinting them first? Don’t do them both on the same day, the extension will come right off if you tint.
  • Brows need to be clean and oil-free. (Oil will break down the adhesive.) Clean the brows with saline solution.
  • Mark out your brows with a shadow or wax pencil.


Always attach the extension to a hair. It’s better than attaching it to the skin. Once that person’s body oil starts producing the adhesive will steadily wear away. Skin doesn’t have a lot of grip.

STEP 1: Always start at the tail first!
STEP 2: Continue to fill - you have to work within the persons brow hairs.
STEP 3: Complete fan and head hairs.

Make sure you’re choosing the right patterns, right lengths, color, shading and highlights. “If you find your client has some red tones, then you may want to put a few of those in,” says Flevaris.

Oils break down the adhesive bond, so recommend to your clients that they only use oil-free cleanser, oil-free makeup and oil-free sunscreen. “The only downfall to eyelash extensions is that they don’t last that long. They can last anywhere from a day to a week depending on how the client treats them.

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