Close

Cut

6 Tips for Flawless Precision Cutting

by MODERN Staff | May 9, 2018
Hair: Sam Villa Hair Katie Parker
Hair: Sam Villa HairKatie Parker

“When you’re precision cutting, you have to think much smaller in terms of tools, tension, elevation and sectioning to achieve the exactness it requires.  You have to take big ideas and break them down,” says Andrew Carruthers, Education Director for Sam Villa.

The goal of precision cutting is to create exact edges that are still elegant.  “Using smaller tools allows you to get closer to the head and sub-sectioning allows you to incrementally follow the shape of the head for meticulous cutting that creates accurate shapes and texture,” adds Carruthers. 

Tools

Smaller sections call for smaller tools.  Carruthers uses the Sam Villa Artist Series Detail Comb which has a slim profile and good flexibility for precision cutting with smaller shears like the Sam Villa Signature Series 5.5” Swivel Shear that he uses to allow detailed hand positioning without causing stress on the wrist. 

Tension

Tension is needed to cut clean lines.  "Use enough to have control - the more tension, the softer the line will be."

Over Direction

Over direction is needed to control weight and balance from front to back. "In more heavily textured haircuts, little bits of variation can go unnoticed, but when keeping things precise, those little variations can create big challenges."

Elevation

Variation in elevation can make a huge difference, especially when working with strong precise lines.  "Make sure to adapt elevation based on the natural shape of the head to maintain the desired effect of the cut."

Precision One-Length Tips

Cutting a simple one-length perimeter can be one of the most challenging aspects to a precision haircut. "Make sure to follow the natural head shape and craft sections to mirror the desired edges.  Horizontal sections create a flat perimeter; slightly diagonal sections forward make hair fall towards the face; and slightly diagonal sections back cause hair to fall away from the face."

Precision Graduation Tips

Precise graduation can be tricky, especially when getting really tight down at the neckline.  Carruthers uses a small comb, the Sam Villa Artist Series Detail Comb, and sub-sections to create a precision rounded line.  "Bring fingers completely flush to the head and then move the tips out while leaving knuckles on the neck for exactness."

Adds Carruthers, “Change your mindset and you’ll change your results.”

photo credit: Hair/Sam Villa Hair; Photo/Katie Parker

Xavier at work, surrounded by chaos, at Salon Xavier, Sag Harbor, NY

Cut

Best Kids Cut Ever!

by Maggie Mulhern

Xavier Merat, owner of Salon Xavier, Sag Harbor, NY, shows how he can execute the perfect kids cut on a ten year old boy while surrounded by his younger brother, a microphone and a recording device. He's a PRO!

Mastering the bob

Cut

Five Tips To Mastering The Bob

by Maggie Mulhern

It is a classic and a silhouette that every hairdresser should know how to perfect. But creating a bob is really more detailed than you think. Get a breakdown of the cut and learn the five MUSTS to mastering the shape.

TRENDING: The French Bob

Cut

TRENDING: The French Bob

by Anne Moratto

Leave it to the French to inspire a haircut so chic, it’s truly timeless. It’s a look that never goes away and when you see it, you know it. And lately, we’ve been seeing it everywhere.

Why it Makes Sense to be a Curl Expert

Career

Why it Makes Sense to be a Curl Expert

by Michelle Breyer

Although more than 60 percent of the population has curly, coily or wavy hair, only a fraction of stylists are trained to work with texture. There is only one curl-trainedstylist for every 32,000 curly people, according to DevaCurl, which has trained thousands of stylists at its Academy.

Videos

In our video section, watch salon professionals in action, listen to the advice of salon business experts, and tour inside the world’s top salons.

Load More