HOW-TO: The Infrared Shine Line

by MODERN Staff | September 29, 2018
Hair: Doug Theoharis @doug_theo Kyle Goldberg @likes.this
Hair: Doug Theoharis @doug_theoKyle Goldberg @likes.this

At Pulp Riot, creativity and precision meet at the shine line.


Natural level 5

Formula 1: 1 oz Pulp Riot blondeAF lightener with 2 oz 30-volume Pulp Riot developer

Formula 2: 1 oz lightener with 2 oz 35-volume developer

Formula 3: 2 oz Faction8 4-0 with 2 oz 6-volume developer

Formula 4: ¾ oz 7-66 + ¼ oz -66 with 1 oz 6-volume developer


  1. To pre-lighten shine line, section hair ear to ear, from the top of the crown. Take a 1- to 2-inch subsection across the head horizontally, at the top of the crown. It should be as wide as the client’s recession area. Clip this section up. Then take two parallel 1- to 2-inch sections off the center part. Leave the bangs out, and clip them up. You should now have a T-shape sectioned out on top of the head.
  2. Starting at the back section, drop down a fine horizontal slice, and place on foil. Using Formula 1, start painting a 2½-inch shine line that moves 4½ inches from the base, all the way across the section. Keep dropping subsequent sections into the foil, and saturate the shine line until you run out of hair.
  3. Now, move to the sides. Apply Formula 1, using the same technique as step 2. Start at the bottom of each side, and work up to the center part. Use your back section as your guide to correctly place the shine line. Once the back and one side are completed, switch to Formula 2 for the remainder.
  4. Next, take a horizontal section from the top of the bang that is 1-to-2-inches thick. It should be parallel to the back section. Since the bang is shorter than the rest of the sections, the shine line will move from the mid-section of the bangs to the ends. Starting at the bottom of the section, take fine slices, and apply Formula 2 in the same manner as before. Process until you achieve a level 8, then shampoo, rinse and dry hair.
  5. Apply Formula 3 to all of the base area, Formula 4 to the pre-lightened shine line and Formula 3 to the rest of the hair. Process as desired, then rinse. When rinsing the base hold the shine line out, so the dark color does not run into the red.


Hair: Doug Theoharis @doug_theo
Photographer: Kyle Goldberg @likes.this
Makeup: Amber Brenke @amberrosehairandmakeup

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