The following response comes from internationally acclaimed salon colorist, educator and product consultant, Beth Minardi. She is recognized as one of the world's leading experts in all phases of coloring. Minardi will be onstage at America’s Beauty Show sharing her gorgeous, customized, money-making hair color on the runway AND interactive, business-building education for hair colorists at every level!
Colorist in Crisis Question: A client did an at-home "color wash" on top of her highlighted hair. The color grabbed at the mid-lengths and ends leaving them much deeper and darker. How should I fix it?
The "color wash" formula she applied successfully lightened the hair at and near the scalp. But when brought onto the more porous mid-lengths and ends of the hair, the formula "grabbed" darker and drabber than the hair near the scalp. When we lighten the hair near the scalp, which has not been previously highlighted, it can lighten rapidly. So, you have a balancing act on your hands.
Right now, here is what I suggest:
STEP ONE: Softly and gently deepen that "hot root" area. I suggest using an acidic demi liquid shade, mixed with 5 volume developer. Formulate, using a formula which is one or two levels lighter than you wish to achieve.
THE WATCHOUT: I recommend that you refrain from trying to globally apply a color remover or bleach to the ends. At times, Malibu 2000, applied evenly and in fine sections, will remove the stain left by the color wash formula.
THE FIX: The best thing to do is…
- Mix powder or creme lightener with 10 volume developer.
- Start at each side of the face, and highlight by "floating" the foils, omitting the hair closer to the scalp, and by weaving "melted" lightened pieces into the mid-lengths and tips of the hair.
This will allow you to obtain a wonderful balance. You will softly deepen and cool the hot root area and will add more brilliance into selected strands of the hair lengths.
Wishing you continued success,
Sunday, March 31
1pm - 3pm – PRESENTATION | 2 CEHS Two hours of pure, interactive, business-building education for hair colorists at every level!
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