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How To: Warm Caramel Greyagé by Joey Figueiredo

by Katie Johns | July 19, 2019
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To avoid flatness and dullness, stylist Joey Figueiredo has created a greyagé technique.

Using two photos for inspiration, Figueiredo used his greyagé technique on his sister-in-law recently, and the result was a gorgeous head of hair. 

"My greyagé technique is to give life back to the hair by creating customized 100% grey coverage formulas and adding dimension to the hair to give versatility, shine and moisture to my clients hair while letting the hair grow out in a soft and natural way, he says.

Figueiredo adds,  "You don't have to add hi/lowlights every time. You would usually just retouch the grey regrowth every four to six weeks. Every 12-16 weeks you would then do the full Greyagé again depending on the clients hair regrowth which should be very soft and blended." 

Depending on how fast the client grows out, Figueiredo does a "color part touch-up" every three weeks, in which he mixes 10g of the client's base formula and applies it to the temples and part line. The client then goes home and washes it out. 

"I do that is because I know their formula, and it's better than them touching it up with a box formula I don't know and will perhaps have to fix later on," he says. "It helps them stretch out their color a few weeks, and I still know they are using my services as well. Plus it only takes 10-15 minutes to apply.

 

Below, is how Figueiredo cut and styled his client's hair along with the color formula: 

The Cut

I mix my cutting between precision cutting on wet hair then detail cutting on dry.

  • Cutting Step 1: Cut the layers by taking each vertical section to a 90 degree angle 
  • Cutting Step 2: Take each side section back to the first section and over directing
  • Cutting Step 3: Cut the perimator last to the desired length 
  • Cutting Step 4: Detail while dry, cross-checking and framing the face

The Style

  • Styling Step 1: Shampoo and condition with EVO Ritual Salvation
  • Styling Step 2: Apply EVO Love Touch to detangle, add shine and slip
  • Styling Step 3: Add a quarter size amount of EVO Lock Down and Spray five pumps of EVO Happy Campers. Blend together with palms and apply evenly throughout the hair.
  • Styling Step 4: Blowdry with the Dyson Supersonic on low pressure, high heat
  • Styling Step 5: Use a Cloud Nine Flat Iron to flat iron curl the hair on a temperature of 350 degrees
  • Styling Step 6: Comb Out with EVO's wide tooth comb "ROY"
  • Styling Step 7: Finish to set with EVO Miss Malleable Flexible Hairspray 
  • Styling Step 8: Spritz EVO Love Touch to areas you want to highlight (for pictures)

 

Formula

Warm Caramel Greyagé by Joey Figueiredo

Color Formula 1: Base Schwarzkopf Igora - 20g 4-0, 10g 5-1 10g 4-12, 40g 20 Volume

Color Formula 2: Highlights - Schwarzkopf Blondme 20g Powder, 40g 30 Volume Premium Blondme Develope

Color Formula 3: Lowlights - Schwarzkopf Igora Vibrance 20g 4-0 20g Vibrance 13 Volume

Color Formula 4: Toner - Schwarzkopf Igora Vibrance 20g 0-00, 10g 7-65, 30g Vibrance 13 Volume 

 

Color Step 1: Apply Formula 1 to the base, first 1" or regrowth of grey in each quadrant

Color Step 2: Starting at the nape by taking a 45 degree section. Weave and back comb each section and apply Formula 2 to the weaved portion for the highlight by feathering the lightener in a "V" pr "W" shape. Make sure to use a Foil or Plastic wrap to separate the color from the other hair just as you would a Balayage Highlight.

Color Step 3: In between the foils take weaved sections and hand paint Color Formula 3 and let that lay in foil or in open air. Place where you want to see the lowlight and take as many sections depending on how much depth you want. 

Color Step 4: After Shampooing and Conditioning with EVO Ritual Salvation. Apply Color Formula 4 (The Toner) in toweled dried hair for approx. 10-15 Minutes then rinse.

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