Blondes don’t always stay even, cool and true like this one. When unwanted brassiness or muddy ends occur, are you prepared to fix the problem? Haircolor by Teri Dougherty @teridougherty.
Corrective color often boils down to matters of pigment and porosity says Aloxxi Artistic Advisor Teri Dougherty. Hair color by @teridougherty.
A purple shampoo like Aloxxi Violet Shampoo is for more than at-home care. You can also use it as a quick toner in the salon when doing corrective color services.
Blonde hair color requires loads of care and know-how, and sometimes it also requires corrective strategies to bring it up to speed. For example, says Aloxxi Artistic Advisor Teri Dougherty @teridougherty, “How often have you stood behind someone in the grocery store and noticed a couple of inches of ‘blorange’ at the base and muddy, drab ends? It’s so common!” Here are Teri’s fixes for two of the most common blonde hair color scenarios, guaranteed to keep your blonde beauties free of brass, blandness, spots and bands.
Learn how to balance a blonde and correct common blonde hair issues like banding in this video:
Fixing the Blorange-y Base with Drab Ends
This common situation is caused by two things—contributing underlying pigment in the new growth and porosity in the processed midlengths and ends. “The underlying pigment of the new growth contributes to unwanted brassiness, while the porous ends may have grabbed too much cool toner,” Teri explains. To unify the two shades, start with the new growth. Lighten the hair from scalp to midlengths, with heavy highlights or a freehand application. “The blonder they want to be, the heavier the application,” Teri notes. “Once the color has lifted, a quick trick is to bring the client to the bowl, rinse and quickly run the lightener through the ends to remove the ash deposit. Then do two Aloxxi ColourLock treatments to lock down the cuticle and stop further processing. This will really help contribute to an even toning result.” Another tip? “After the ColourLock, I like to apply Aloxxi Violet Shampoo to the base before toning,” says Teri. “Put on an ample amount and let it sit for a few minutes. It’s a quick tone that softens the warmth before you go back to do more detailed toning.”
Toning is the final step, and when it comes to drab ends, Teri has another secret weapon. “If I’m using a Level 10 Aloxxi Tones Demi-Permanentviolet or ash formula on the base, I’ll switch to Tones Clear with a chocolate chip sized drop of 8K copper for the midlengths and ends,” she reveals. “It makes the ends shiny and creates the perfect neutral blonde.”
Fixing Spotting and Banding
As balayage becomes more and more popular, colorists are seeing a rise in spotting and banding due to the freehand nature of the technique. In these instances, says Teri, the best approach is to divide the head in half for more control. “Start in the back at the nape,” she advises. “Go back to basics, assessing natural level, underlying pigment and porosity. Formulate your lightener with 10, 20 or 30 volume developer, depending on how much pigment needs to come out. I like to use Aloxxi Freehand Lightener because it won’t bleed. Then work in horizontal sections and go through with vertical strokes to remove the spots. Work up to the top, rinse the back and apply ColourLock. Process and remove the ColourLock and repeat the process through the sides, top and front. Apply ColourLock once more, followed by Aloxxi Violet Shampoo to quickly tone the raw blonde. Then dry the hair and go ahead and apply your toner.”
Finally, says Teri, blonde clients themselves can prevent a lot of blonde pain by using violet shampoo at home, once or twice a week. “I advise them to shampoo with tepid water,” she notes, “and focus on the scalp area. Wait a minute or two, then rinse. The shampoo that runs through the ends will provide the perfect amount of toning and give them a balanced, shimmery result.”
Learn more about Aloxxi Violet Shampoo.