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Makeover: Lift, Deposit, Fill and Neutralize For The Win!

by Maggie Mulhern | August 12, 2019
Makoever by Elyse Rox
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Makoever by Elyse Rox

 

Elyse Rox (@elyserox00) of RockIt Studio, Schaumburg, Illinois, specializes in color corrections, vivid color and balayage. “My client found me through a Google search and continued to investigate me through various social media accounts and decided I was the girl for the job,” Rox says. “I had her come for a consult and was shocked by what I saw. I actually lost sleep over it! What was I going to do to fix this hair?”

Rox came up with a plan that did not involve the easy fix of just covering with brown and running. “That’s not what she wanted. She still wanted some blonde.” Rox adds that this was probably the most challenging color correction of her career. “Levels 3, 6, 8 and 12 – all on the same head of hair. I had to lift, deposit/fill, and neutralize orange. There were at least five inches of residual black box dye on her ends.”

Ouch.

Here Rox shares the details for this correction that took place over two days:

DAY ONE:

Apply Malibu C Pro CPR twice. Then apply an Olaplex stand-alone treatment. Follow with Malibu C Reparative conditioning cocktail. 

DAY TWO:

Prepare colors:

Base colors: zone 1

Matrix Logics Imprints:

Root: 3N-F 4N-f 1/32oz Olaplex 10 volume 

Mids: zone 2

3RV-F 3N-F 4RO-F 1/32 oz Olaplex 10 volume 

Ends: zone 3

6S-S 6V-F 6N-F adding Malibu C Color Pigments Blue 1/4 oz and 1/32 oz Olaplex 10 volume 

Lightener: Matrix V-Light Hair Lightener with Trionics hair care 2 formulas one

Accent: 1/16 oz Olaplex mid lengths zone 2

Higher and higher 1/32 oz Olaplex on last 4 inches of hair zone 3 

Step 1: Section into five sections. “I did the old fashioned weave and color in between - I needed the control. Placing the proper formula to each section of colors, covering her gray on top blending and filling in the mid length and controlling warmth on the ends."

Step 2: Install foils. “Since the back was at about 50 minutes done we stopped and rinsed the back and stopped oxidation with Malibu C, Crystal gel processed the rest for about 40 minutes. This was all done in one go. I didn’t want to balance the color and then have to lift that out, I wanted to utilize the blonde that was there. I could not break the residual dye and still very warm.” Color was lifted 1 -2 shades.

Step 3: Glaze with Redken Shades EQ and process for 20 minutes: 

Root: 6n 6nb touch 6rb 

Mids: 8n 8gi

Ends: 9na 

Step 4: Follow with an Olaplex stand alone and Malibu C conditioners cocktailed with concentr8 mixers 

Step 5: Blow dry with Olaplex No. 6

Makoever by Elyse Rox
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Makoever by Elyse Rox

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