“My best transformation of all time is on my client Amanda,” says Grayson Troy (@graysontroy), owner of Grayson Troy Hair, Morristown, NJ. “Amanda messaged me on Instagram and told me she had been searching for the right hair stylist to fix her hair for a while. She told me she had used Sun In during the summer to get her hair ‘naturally light’. What she didn't tell me was that her hair was about four different tones with blotches of lightness all over, making it extremely uneven.”
Here Troy shares the details for the correction:
STEP 1: Map out the hair. “When it comes to big projections, I like to pre-section. This helps because it keeps you neat and gives you a road map to accomplish your goals.”
STEP 2: Section from ear to ear. Create back to back babylights and tease-y lights (all placed in foils) on a diagonal to just under the occipital bone "to create a solid blonde for those times when the client pushes the hair forward." For babylights, apply Oligo Professional cool toned lightener with 10 volume 1:1. For the tease-y lights raise to 20 volume.
STEP 3: Continue in triangular sections throughout the hair, raising developer as you work up the head, upping to 30 volume in the mohawk section.
STEP 4: Now Troy applies what he considers “the most important step, just when you think you’re done!” Create a fresh bowl of color with 40 volume developer. Go back through all the foils and re-apply lightener. “Every colorist knows that lightener has a life span. The re-application of bleach at a higher developer shouldn't scare you. This will give your lightener the juice it needs to pull the hair to your desired lightness. My goal is to achieve light yellow undertones in order to achieve a clean white blonde.” Process and then rinse.
STEP 5: Color melt using Oligo Professional Gloss in 3 different formulas.
Zone 1: equal parts 5N, 6N with cream developer
Zone 2 equal parts 7N and 8N with cream developer
Zone 3: 1.5 oz of 10v, 1.5 oz of 10ai, and .25 of 10gv with cream developer.
Process for 10 minutes and then rinse thoroughly.
“This took me almost 7 hours to complete from start to finish, but was accomplished in one sitting - keeping the hair extremely healthy.”
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