You’ve nailed the best red or shell pink of your hair color career and you’re feeling pretty good about it…until you see your hair color client a few weeks later. Your heart drops when you notice your shiny, vivid copper has turned yellow and sad, or your delicate petal rose has faded into oblivion. No hair color lasts forever, of course, but there are definitely preventive measures you can take and interventions you can share with your color clients to stall the inevitable and keep your beautiful red, pastel and vibrant shades fresh for as long as possible.
Is her shower water too hot? “I know it sucks,” says Aly Davis, @alydavishair, a MODERN SALON Artist Connective member based in Myrtle Beach, SC, “but hot water expands the cuticle, allowing the hair to release pigment. So tell your client to turn down the temperature. Advise her to opt for water that’s tepid or even cool when she shampoos her hair. It will keep the cuticle layers closed a little more, and that means less fading.”
Is she using the right shampoo and conditioner? “If your client isn’t asking you to recommend the best shampoo for her colored hair, tell her,” says Davis. “Remember, ingredients matter! She should be using formulas that are color-safe and free of sulfates.”
Is she washing her hair too often? “I know this is a hard one for those who tend to get oily quick,” Davis says. “But your hair color client should probably only shampoo her hair max twice a week. If she balks at that, recommend a great dry shampoo to apply when her hair is clean, to give it more longevity in between washes.”
Is her blow dryer the best choice for color vibrancy? For example, “Styling tools do not have to be above 350 to get curls that hold or silky-smooth hair,” says Davis. “Nobody should be styling hair at a temperature used to bake cookies!” Todd Tinnel, @toddtinnel, National Education Manager for Dyson, agrees. He points out that the engineering of the Dyson Supersonic puts the emphasis on air flow to dry the hair, which enables the hair dryer to be effective at a lower temperature. “The maximum temperature setting on the Dyson Supersonic is 302 degrees,” says Tinnel. “And that’s really all you need—anything beyond that begins to lift the cuticle, which leads to damage and premature color fading. So it’s the ideal tool for stylists to use on their hair color clients in the salon and to recommend to their clients to use at home.”
Is she waiting a minimum of 48 hours after the color service before shampooing? “When hair color is new and fresh,” explains Davis, “there’s a good chance the cuticle hasn’t completely shut back down yet. So it’s best to allow some time for the hair to readjust and the color to set before that first post-service shampoo!”
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