Going From Blonde to Red: Tips, Pricing and a Warning

Sadie Gray (@sadiejcre8s) of Sadie Jean & Co, Santa Rosa, California, has developed a great technique for her blonde clients going red. “Here’s my recommendation,” Gray says. “I use a demi-permanent hair color applied over golden balayage highlights. The red will have pop and brightness. It’s the best way to flirt with being red without being married to it.” 

Because demi hair colors are non-ammonia, Gray points out that the color “simply hugs the hair shaft as opposed to digging deep into the cuticle/cortex. So, if it’s something that your client doesn’t totally fall in love with, then it’s no big deal. It will fade out and leave the hair barely stained and easily brought back to blonde with little to zero damage.”

Another bonus, according to Gray, is that with every wash, the color will fade a bit. “In other words, every time she shampoos, she’ll have a slightly different color - and change is fun! The hair and the water/product/lifestyle/how often the hair is washed will determine how long the red stays vibrant.”

Gray adds that your client can use that time to determine if she loves the shade, at which point you move to semi-permanent, “but remind her to be ready to keep it for a long time, and be ready to fork over more money if she decides to return to blonde.”

Gray shares the details for this transformation:

COLOR: At root apply Matrix Color Sync Vinyls Rose Copper. Melt into Matrix Color Sync Watercolors Peach Coral, each mixed with demi developer, 1:1. Color is applied to clean, dry hair and processed for 25 minutes. Rinse with tepid water and do not shampoo. “I like to follow up with an acidified conditioner - Biolage Acidic Milk Rinse is amazing.”

PRICING: Because the hair had been pre-lightened with highlights, there was no need to prep the hair. “Her hair also had plenty of gold/natural brightness, so I wasn’t concerned with her hair turning pink. I charged $200 for an all over color. She added a haircut to her service, so I charged $55 for that, for a total of $255.” Gray would have added her normal highlighting/balayage fee to the total if the client needed this service.

WARNING:  “I wish I would’ve emphasized to my guest how temporary this color could be. I thought I had relayed this to her well enough, but she was a little bummed that it faded as quickly as it did.” Gray adds that the fade “is exactly what I wanted for her being that she wasn’t sure if she’d wanted to add additional blonde in the future.”