“I always feel inspired when clients are ready for a change,” says Cherry Barber-Petenbrink, Olivia Garden artistic director, Joico International guest artist. “But, remember that the consultation is key—especially in a makeover. Listening to your client and knowing restrictions upfront can make or break client satisfaction. It’s very important to understand every aspect and expectation.”
When it comes to a cut, Barber-Petenbrink proceeds with caution.
“You can always take more off. Maybe wearing hair back, up or in a ponytail remains vital to your client. Be sure all these questions are covered upfront.”
When selecting a new silhouette, Barber-Petenbrink says artists must dig deep into their skill set.
“Choosing a classic or on-trend cut that can be customized for your client is exciting and challenging,” she says, pointing out that transformations help artists stay passionate and fulfilled.
In the case of a modern shaggy lob, Barber-Petenbrink says it’s important to know how often your client plans to return for a refresh.
“If you know the client won’t be able to return for 8 or 12 weeks, estimate the growth and discuss options. This way every phase of growth can be embraced until reshape.”
For the client who comes to you for a change, it’s all about trust.
“The client that trusts you will return. Loyalty is something we must earn,” Barber-Petenbrink says. “Listening is key to keeping valued clients on the books.”
Modern Shaggy Lob
STEP 1. Create a zigzag parting from temple to crown to temple. Isolate the top. Comb hair below the isolation down. Start in the back by taking horizontal partings and cutting to desired length with zero elevation. Continue with fine sections in partings ½ inch behind the ear to ½ inch behind the ear.
STEP 2. Move to the side and take horizontal partings from the hairline to behind the ear. Comb hair down and slightly back. Line up and continue to cut the line and balance with the back at zero elevation. “This will create a one-length soft square line with slightly longer lengths through the sides.” Repeat on the opposite side.
STEP 3. Move to the top section. Take a vertical/diagonal parting from the center and lift up. Cut to desired length—long enough for a lob length, but short enough to create shaggy layers.
STEP 4. Move around the head from crown to the front hairline only cutting within the zigzag section. Repeat on other side. Cross check for balance.
STEP 5. Now take sections from the length below the zigzag and bring up to the new guide. Cut to meet the length while keeping ends shagged and soft.
STEP 6. Create a small triangle section to allow for a soft face-framing curtain fringe. Take a thin vertical section from the center of the triangle and elevate. Slightly angle fingers toward the face. Cut to desired length while overdirecting to create length in the temple and a soft frame.
STEP 7. To finish, apply Joico Dream Blowout Thermal Protectant Crème to damp hair. Using Olivia Garden Ceramic Ion Blow dryer and Heat pro 7 Row Styler, directionally blow dry hair wrapping hair in different directions for a smooth but tousled finish. Use Olivia Garden Nano Thermic Square Styler (30), wrapping hair around the brush, twisting and flipping the brush winding down the hair to create soft textured beach waves. Finish hair with Joico Body shake for a more defined loose beachy feel.
Hair: Cherry Barber-Petenbrink
Photographer: Roberto Ligresti
Makeup: David Maderich
Fashion styling: Rod Novoa
PRODUCTS & TOOLS
Shampoo and conditioner: Joico Defy Damage Shampoo & Pro Series 2 treatment; Defy Damage Protective Veil Leave-in
Brushes: I-Detangle; MultiBrush by Olivia Garden
Shears: Olivia Garden SilkCut Pro 5.75
Blower: Olivia Garden Ceramic + Ion Blow Dryer
Iron: Olivia Garden Ceramic + Ion Professional Flat Iron
Stylers: Design Spray; Body Shake; Dry Spray Oil; Design Hair Spray; Hairshake; K-Pak Protective Shine Serum and K-Pak Design Foam; all by Joico.
Behind the scenes on set: