7 Tips for Cutting and Styling Bobs and Lobs

Scroll through the season’s latest red-carpet photos and the message comes through loud and clear. Long, undulating mermaid waves are giving way to a couple of new hairstyle trends, namely smooth, swingy bobs and gently waved lobs. Cutting expert Luis Miller @lulustylesnyc of Fabio Scalia Salon in New York City’s SoHo neighborhood, agrees. Specifically, he says we’re seeing bobs and lobs—from chin to collarbone lengths—that appear to be one length, but in fact are textured to create soft layering and movement.  Ready for a wave of requests for these trending cuts? Start with these tips from Miller and Dyson National Education Manager Todd Tinnel.

Cut with Clean Sections. “This is my main tip when cutting a bob,” Miller says. “The guide should always be 100% visible. Clean sections produce a more precise cut and stronger perimeter lines, and you’ll have less ‘editing’ to do when the cut is finished.”

Adjust for the side sections. “When cutting a blunt bob, I always cut the side sections at natural fall, slightly angling the line from short to long,” Miller says. “That’s because in most cases, if you cut everything the same length, the sides will appear to angle upward when you look at the hair cut from the front. A slight angle actually gives the illusion of one length.”

Texturize on a Straight Finish. Before texturizing the cut, Miller always dries the hair to a finish that is as straight as possible. “Comb, comb, comb to detail that perimeter and get all those little hairs into straight lines,” he advises. Tinnel believes a hair dryer like The Dyson Supersonic™ Professional Edition Hair Dryer is ideal for drying bobs and lobs because the airflow from the nozzle is designed to be extremely concentrated and precise. “You can really control the airflow, so the hair doesn’t move all over,” Tinnel says. It’s the best way to control the finish of a precision cut like a bob.”

Create Subtle Layers. Internal layering provides a bob or lob with soft texture and movement. “After drying the hair straight, I use my texturizing shears on horizontal, 45-degree sections below the occipital to remove weight, especially on thick hair,” Miller says. “Then I use the texturizing shears on vertical, 90-degree sections to create soft layers.”

Secrets to a Glass Finish. When styling and finishing a sleek bob, Miller always uses a vent styling brush and dryer for a finish that’s as smooth as possible, paying close attention to the ends. Then he sprays a cushioned styling brush with shine spray and hairspray and brushes through the hair. “That’s how you get a really smooth, almost glass-like finished result,” he says.

Secrets to a Textured Finish. For a modern, lived-in texture, Miller also dries the hair to a sleek finish with a brush and hair dryer. Then he works with a 1¼-inch or 2-inch curling iron and 1-inch sections, alternating the direction of the sections in back and directing the front sections away from the face. “My secret is a $4 wide-tooth comb that I use to break up and blend the curl,” Miller says. “To finish, I apply a leave-in crème to the mid-lengths and ends and a texturizing spray for a lived-in look.”

Curly Bobs? Why Not? “When cut correctly, a bob on curly hair is beautiful!” Miller says. “When cutting a curly bob, I bevel my vertical sections at a 45-degree angle, using the wider teeth of my comb for less tension. This leaves a bit more length to compensate for the curl pattern when the hair is dry. I dry the hair with a diffuser, then do the majority of detailing and angling when the curls are fully dry so I can see the shape of the curl pattern. Instead of a texture shear, I use a razor to carve out the curl and remove weight where needed.” When drying curls, Tinnel recommends the Dyson Supersonic diffuser attachment because it is engineered with a dual layer of metal mesh to ensure air and heat are dispersed completely and evenly. “It dries the hair without creating hot spots,” he says. “The curls stay intact without becoming frizzy.”

Learn more about the Dyson Supersonic.