Understanding how oxidation affects hair color can make the difference between good work and great work like this heavenly honey blonde. Hair: Anthony Barnhill @anthonybarnhillhair
Here, Anthony Barnhill @anthonybarnhillhair shares a before and after using Malibu C Crystal Gel Treatment, which preps hair before color and stops color from oxidizing after rinsing.
A two-step Malibu Makeover serves as “color insurance”—preventing common color downsides like fading, color shifts, uneven distribution, dullness and dryness.
Anyone who spends a major portion of their day in the salon coloring hair knows how important it is to master the ins and outs of corrective hair color. Because the reality is, clients rarely show up with a virgin head of hair. More often than not there’s a long history of chemical services on that head! And according to Missy Peterson, global education and artistic director for Malibu C, the foundation upon which all corrective color rests is the understanding of a process called oxidation.
SO WHAT EXACTLY IS OXIDATION?
According to Peterson, oxidation occurs when too much oxygen attacks the hair or skin. Oxidation leads to the development of something called free radicals. Free radicals lead to inflammation. Inflammation leads to disease and damage. In the salon, oxidation can be caused by coloring, highlighting, perming and thio straightening, all of which require the use of peroxide, which is an oxidizer. And it’s oxidation that causes hair color to fade, lighten and become discolored, and also causes hair to become damaged or broken.
HERE’S HOW TO BECOME A TOTAL OXIDATION MASTER
The importance of understanding oxidation is why Malibu C has created a new, easy-to-access online academy, offering certification on the science of oxidation, advanced corrective color and advanced texture. “Malibu C is an education-based company founded in science and that’s the focus of our new academy program,” Peterson says.
She explains the Total Oxidation Management or T.O.M. course covers controlling oxidative factors, how oxidation affects the hairstylist and how it affects all processes. Students also learn about the oxidative properties of water and how it negatively affects hair color. Completing the course leads to a Malibu C certification. If the entire salon completes the course, the salon is designated a Malibu C certified salon and earns a spot in the company’s salon locator.
ADVANCED CORRECTIVE COLOR AND TEXTURE
The Advanced Corrective Color and Texture classes and certification will be available soon, according to Peterson. The color correction program is brand agnostic, so it doesn’t matter what hair color brand you use. The course is strictly focused on color theory and the science of hair color. It also serves as a prep course for the American Board of Certified Colorists (ABCH) certification exam. The Texture program is all about one of today’s most important topics—textured hair. It covers characteristics and issues encountered with all types of textures and incorporates the concepts of Total Oxidation Management into services like relaxers and Brazilian blowouts.
THE MALIBU MAKEOVER
One of the strategies for managing oxidation is the Malibu Makeover service. It’s recommended for rehabbing hair impacted by color fade, discoloration, dullness and dryness. When incorporated into a chemical service, the two-step process includes:
STEP 1: Combine Crystal Gel Wellness Remedy with 2 oz. of water in an applicator bottle. Shake to mix until a gel is formed.
STEP 2: Shampoo with Un-Do-Goo > pH 9 Shampoo to gently remove buildup from styling product; rinse.
STEP 3: Apply freshly activated Crystal Gel Wellness Remedy to hair and scalp, distributing evenly and saturating completely. Cover hair and process under heat for 15-45 minutes, then shampoo with Un-Do-Goo.
STEP 4: After processing the chemical service, apply Miracle Repair Reconstructor to damp hair from roots to ends. Process at room temperature for up to 10 minutes. Rinse with cool water, style and finish.
SAVE $270 ON THE MALIBU C CORRECTIVE COLOR TOOLBOX
This all-in-one kit contains everything you need to become a better hair color expert and a skilled color correction specialist. It includes all the tools needed to correct hair color issues and produce beautiful, even, healthy hair color with any brand. The kit includes:
- 1 Color Disruptor (9 oz)
- 1 Box of 12 Quick Fix
- 1 Box of 12 De-Ox
- 1 Box of 12 Crystal Gel
- 1 Box of 6 DDL XL - Direct Dye Lifter
- 1 Box of 6 CPR - Color Pigment Remover
- 1-year subscription to the Malibu Digital Academy
The kit is valued at $370, but right now it’s available for just $100, which includes the Malibu Digital Academy subscription. With that subscription, members can participate in free online education and certification, (including the Total Oxidation Management certification course,) the Malibu C Facebook Education Forum and the Malibu C app.