HOW-TO: 4 Ways to Style This "Rebellious" Cut and Color
Created by stylist Mark Dotson and colorist Melissa Powers from Salon Ten80 in Atlanta, Georgia, this cut and color is what they would like to call, "The Rebellious-Allure." "We believe that society is becoming more liberated and expressive; therefore we wanted to create looks that embraced both elements of expression. We feel confident through our technique, that edge and rebellion can look both glamorous and chic, therefore making the rebel 'alluring.'"
According to Dotson, here's how he achieved the cut:
STEP 1: “I started in the top by taking a horseshoe section from temple to temple to include the crown of the head. In the back, I disconnected the hair from the top of the left ear to the center of the nape hairline. (Forming a rounded line from the top of the ear to the nape) I sectioned both sides from the horseshoe sections down to the top of the ears. On the right side, I disconnected from about an inch above the ear, from the side parting on top of the ear horizontally to the front hairline.”
STEP 2: “I started the haircut in the back by placing my vertical section from the horseshoe parting in the crown off center to just above the rounded disconnection in the back. (Center of the disconnected section) From the off center parting, I took diagonal sections working up and to the previous section to the top of the right ear.”
STEP 3: “Once at mid ear, the sections pivoted vertically until I met the side parting on top of the ear. I returned to my off centered vertical parting in the back and worked towards the back of the left ear using vertical sections, utilizing a graduated cutting angle.”
STEP 4: “For the back disconnection, I used a concave layer technique. Using diagonal sections starting from the far right of the disconnection, I cut a line working from short to long and directed every section to the first, creating length toward the back of the ear. I then carved out the hairline working up to the back of the right earlobe using the tips of my scissors. I then connected the disconnection in the hairline working longer towards the left ear. (Cutting on the skin).”
STEP 5 (On the left side): “I took a horizontal section from just below the parting of the horseshoe section in the top and the parting to the top of the ear (which makes the sides). I elevated the hair up and cut a new guide with a flat line. I worked down to the hairline with horizontal sections directing everything to the first section. (Everything directed towards the ceiling) thus, creating flatness through the side as well as creating length toward the bottom.
STEP 6 (On the left side): I then applied Awapuhi hydro whip and blow-dried the hair using a flat wrapping technique. I refined with scissor over comb technique. With the tips of my scissors, I carved out the outline by following the hairline. I then cut a square line from the hairline to the center of the ear with the extra length I created from the earlier over direction.
STEP 7 (On the right side): “I repeated the steps from the first side, insuring balance with the initial horizontal guide. I over directed everything up and to the first section working down to my disconnection. Upon completion of the blow dry, I then refined the disconnection with pointing and slicing techniques.
STEP 8 (The top): “Take a center parting from the crown parting to the front hairline. Cut a line working short to long connecting the back to the top. Take parallel sections and over direct all sections to the middle guideline. Apply Awapuhi hydro whip and wrap dry. I cut the fringe by over directing the hair to the left to create length to the right. I refined with pointing and slicing techniques. Mold the hair, as you like.”
THE COLOR: Joico color used.
STEP 1: Pre-treat the hair with Joico Kealating, a pre-cleansing shampoo.
STEP 2: Equalize the porosity using Joico deep treatment conditioner.
STEP 3: Start with three horseshoe sections. For the bottom section, use 1oz of 4FV Vero color plus 20 volume.
STEP 4: Middle section: Use 1oz of 5RR +1 oz of 6RR + two inches of INRV plus 20 volume Vero Color Developer. Top horseshoe: 1 oz of 8RG plus 7RC and three inches of INO plus two inches of ING plus 20 volume. Disconnected piece in the back: three vertical sections. Beginning on the left side, use formula #1, middle formula #2 and right side formula #3. Process for 35 minutes for all sections.
STEP 5: After the color process, use a Joico KPac color sealer for five minutes. Then, condition with KPAC deep treatment therapy.