How-tos on curly looks you can give your clients right now.
THE BIGGER THE BETTER
by Dani Darmanin, Director of Education for Ouidad
As fall approaches, the days get shorter, the nights get longer and hair tends to get flatter. During this time of year I like to achieve as much volume as possible to combat the cold weather blues.
1. Prep hair with Curl Recovery Whipped Curls for extra hydration and frizz protection.
2. On damp hair, apply Curl Quencher Hydrafusion. To ensure even distribution, section hair and rake product through from root to ends. Diffuse hair after application through all sections.
3. To create volume, when hair is 90 percent dry, flip hair and direct dryer on cool at the regrowth in a circular motion to open up curl. Once the curls are set, avoid running fingers through the hair.
THE AMBIGUOUS CURL
by Evie Johnson for Mizani
Take a break from traditional rollers with Mizani’s signature Lacers and True Textures. The circle-shaped foam tool gently defines even the tightest coiled hair while boosting dimension and controlling frizz.
1. To prep the hair, thoroughly cleanse twice with Mizani’s True Textures Curl Balance and condition with Mizani’s True Textures Curl Replenish. Leave the conditioner on the hair for 10- 15 minutes, and then rinse and towel-blot the hair.
2. Apply Mizani’s leave in conditioner Curl Soft, and then distribute Mizani’s Curl Set throughout the hair. This will help the hair keep the curl once it is set on the Mizani Lacers.
3. Starting at the nape, take a C-shaped section and make a ½” part using a rat-tail comb to allow for easy, clean partings.
To proceed, choose either “Spiral Curls” or “Zigzag Curl Pattern” depending on your client’s desired result. Remember: the more hair you place on the lacer, the larger the curl.
Spirals Curls
4. Place the lacer at the base of the section.
5. Divide the hair into two sections, wrapping each section around each side of the lacer from roots to ends. After the entire section of hair is wrapped around the lacer, place an end paper at the ends and secure with a bobby pin. This will ensure that the hair stays on the lacer.
6. Repeat Step 5 until all of the hair has been wrapped around the lacers to achieve a volumized look.
Zigzag Curl Pattern
4. Placing the lacer at the base of the section, weave the entire section in and out of the lacer, creating a figure eight design.
5. Place an end paper at the ends of the hair and secure with a bobby pin. The more space between the hair on the lacers, the longer the wave.
6. Place the client under the hooded dryer for 1.5 hours or until completely dry. Remove the lacers by first uncoiling them and then unwrapping each section of hair from tip to scalp.
7. Using Mizani Supreme Oil or Mizani Coconut Soufflé, gently finger-style to maintain the new curl pattern.
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SUNRISE TO SUNSET
by Karine Jackson for Curlformers
For curly clients and their stylists concerned about heat styling irons, Curlformers offers a styling alternative that creates gorgeous curls and waves without damaging the hair.
LOOK 1: Pump Up the Volume (Day)
1. Prep long hair by setting the entire head from root to tip with Spiral Curlformers for extra-long hair up to 22” long. The hair should be damp but not wet. Use a firm setting lotion for style hold.
2. Leave client under a hooded dryer until hair is completely dry—30-45 minutes depending on length and texture of the hair. Check by removing a Curlformer and simply replacing it if hair isn’t dry. Allow to cool and set before gently removing the Curlformers.
3. Gently rake through hair with fingers to loosen slightly, and mist with a hair spray to create durable, long-lasting curls.
Additional Steps for Look 2: The Faux-Hawk (Night)
4. Take a horseshoe section on the top and pin it out of the way.
5. Smooth the rest of the hair back with hair spray, tie it into a pony tail on the crown and work the curls from the pony tail into position on the crown.
6. Back-comb the front of the hair gently at the roots to give height off the face, and use a firm spray to work the rest of the curls into position. Use a combination of fringe pins and pins to hold.
7. Finish with hair spray and a gloss spray for hold and shine.
TOUSLED TEXTURE
by the Quantum team for Zotos Professional
This sea of luscious, bouncy curls adds body and movement to loose-texture styles. Enhanc¬ing your client’s natural curl pattern is easy with Quantum.
1. Starting at the front hairline, place three to four on-base placements (directed backwards) using large benders or alu-minum foil. Place cotton inside foil to determine the diameter of the desired curl. Always use zigzag partings to ensure blending at scalp.
2. Divide sides in half horizontally, and place two benders over¬directed (at upper portion of the base).
3. Place three benders across the back of the head at a diam¬eter one-and-a-half to two times the diameter of the bender used on the over-directed section. If volume is desired, place at the upper portion of the base; for less volume, place at the lower portion of the base.
4. Repeat step 3.
5. Place two benders at the nape or wherever loose hair remains.
6. Follow manufacture’s directions to complete the perm process. When rinsing out, use a hairnet to keep benders in place.
NATURAL WOMAN
by Damien Carney, Joico Artistic Director
The most beautiful natural textures are lustrous and buoyant, and the key to that ideal texture lies in locks that are well moisturized. Here’s how you can give clients the bouncy, lustrous curls sported by singer Corinne Bailey Rae.
1. After shampooing with Joico Smooth Cure Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner, apply a generous amount of Joico Smooth Cure Leave-In Rescue Treatment. For more control, add a few drops of Joico K-PAK Protect & Shine Serum. Begin at the nape and apply the mixture systematically in horizontal sections, working up to the crown and around to each side. Distribute the product from scalp to ends with a large-tooth comb.
2. Return to the nape and divide the hair into 1” horizontal sec¬tions. Twist each section around your finger, allowing it to coil onto itself. Don’t force it; let the natural texture guide you.
3. Work up the head and around to each side, “setting” the small sections with your finger. Release your finger without disturbing each curl, and allow the hair to dry in place.
4. Once all strands are dry, apply a few drops of Protect & Shine Serum in the palm of your hands, emulsify and gently comb through the hair with your fingers to break up the curls. Avoid over-manipulating the hair; if necessary, re-twirl any section that needs to be re-set. Begin at the nape and work upward as before.
5. Mist with Joico K-PAK Protective Hairspray to repel frizz and flyaways.
INNOCENT FLIRTATION
by Veronique Morrison, Independent Texture Consultant for Strawllers
Create a flirty interest of texture and deep waves using a combi¬nation of double-strand twists and Strawllers rods.
1. Shampoo the hair with Strawllers Hydrating and Detangling Shampoo, followed by Strawllers Soy and Pomegranate Conditioner.
2. After applying Strawllers Foam Wrap and Set Lotion, part the hair from ear to ear at the crown.
3. Using triangular partings, create width by carving out 2” sec¬tions; at approximately two inches down the hair strand from scalp, spiral in a disconnected bricklay set pattern on large Strawller rods and secure.
4. Bring hair down from crown to nape in the back and from crown toward the face. Follow the pattern around the head until hair is completely spiraled.
5. Dry thoroughly and remove rods.
6. Finger-comb hair to enhance curls and create volume.
FREE-SPIRITED FRO
by Jeff Duckwall, GKhair Lead Artist and International Educator
Solange Knowles’s look is very hot for the upcoming season, and textured hair like hers is beautiful when executed properly.
1. Point-cut on dry hair to create an uneven format that shows off the texture and enhances each curl.
2. Apply to wet hair a dime size of GKhair Hair Gel cocktailed with two pumps of GKhair CurlsDefineHer.
3. Partially dry the hair under a hooded dryer on medium heat, and finish off with a dif¬fuser on medium heat to achieve separation.
4. Apply GKhair Serum and GKhair Shaping Wax on each curl to add shine and eliminate frizz.
by Nancy Opdahl, Macadamia Natural Oil Stylist
To prepare the voluminous and sexy style singer Rita Ora is wearing here, spray No Tangle Pre-Styler, followed by a leave-in cream. After the hair is prepped, blow-dry in a uniform style, making sure it is completely dry. To style:
1. Create as many 2” to 2½” sections of hair as you can, starting at the back.
2. Mist Macadamia Natural Oil Control hair spray over the top of the section, and apply Macadamia Natural Oil Volumizing Dry Shampoo to the underneath section.
3. Curl small portions of hair by using a small-barrel curling iron to create a spiral wave toward the face. Continue to repeat the same technique by moving from the back of head toward the front.
4. When all hair in a section is curled, spray with Control and back-comb the underneath of that section.
5. Using a small curling iron, create spiral waves toward the face. Repeat for each section until you reach the front, making sure to keep the waves away from the face by pinning them at the front sections if necessary.
6. Separate the entire style by spraying more Volumizing Dry Shampoo under the hair and spreading it through the hair.
7. Polish the top of the hair with Control, comb it perfectly and finish with Healing Oil Spray for added shine.
8. For an edgy look, part hair to the side with a fine-tooth comb.
by Veronique Morrison, Independent Texture Consultant for Strawllers
Straight hair takes on a sassy curl with this look, created using a directional sweep pattern alternating Strawllers Rollers for depth and interest.
1. Shampoo the hair with Strawllers Hydrating and Detangling Shampoo, followed by Strawllers Soy and Pomegranate Conditioner.
2. After applying Strawllers Foam Wrap and Set Lotion, part the hair in the direction of desired movement.
3. Starting at the hairline, use the temple as a guide to roll the hair vertically around the tool and secure. Alternate size of every other roller, following that pattern around the perimeter until complete.
4. Complete the crown area in the same manner from left temple to right temple. Dry completely and remove rods.
5. Finger-comb hair to enhance wave pattern.
6. Apply Strawllers Spray Shine to highlight detail.
by the Matrix team
Give clients a trendy, feminine look for fall.
1. Gently cleanse hair with Total Results Pro Solutionist Alternate Action Clarify¬ing Shampoo, and towel-dry. Comb hair avoiding the scalp, and treat with Total Results Pro Solutionist Instacure Leave-In Treatment.
2. Separate the front from the back by parting from top of ear to top of ear. Find your client’s natural part and divide the front into four sections by taking a horizontal parting at the parietal ridge on each side. Secure with an elastic band, making a ponytail at the back of each section.
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3. Separate the top from the bottom by parting across the occipital, and clip the bottom section out of the way. Take a diagonal parting from the parietal to the mid-point in the back, and repeat on the opposite side to create a triangular section and result in three triangular sub-sections. Place a ponytail at the bottom of each sub-section and secure with an elastic band. Repeat the procedure below in the nape region.
4. Wrap a ponytail section with two to three 1” rods, keep¬ing them one inch away from the elastic bands prior to apply¬ing waving lotion.
5. Pouring slowly to avoid creating foaming, empty the con¬tents of the activator tube into the waving lotion. Replace applicator cap and gently swirl, but do not shake. Unscrew the cap to release any gas that may have formed from mixing. Screw cap back on and snip applicator tip. Starting at the crown, apply the mixture to the top and underside of each rod, and then repeat saturation to the middle of each rod.
6. After application, replace the wet cotton strip and neck towel with dry ones. Cover rods with a plastic cap. Process at room temperature for 5-25 minutes.
7. When processing is complete, remove plastic cap and rinse with lukewarm water for five minutes. Blot each rod gently to remove excessive moisture.
8. To achieve a looser curl, apply one pass of Wave Customizer to all rods and process for five minutes at room temperature. Do not rinse out.
9. Starting at the crown, apply neutralizer to all rods both on top and on the underside, and then saturate the middle of each rod. Save a small portion of neutralizer and set aside. Process for five minutes. Remove rods and re-saturate ends with remaining neutralizer. Work through for one minute. Do not stretch hair. Rinse with lukewarm water for five minutes.
10. Apply Total Results Curl Super Defrizzer Gel. Diffuse hair while scrunching the ends until the hair is at least 75 percent dry.
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