How To: Formula and Steps to Safely Go From Brunette to Blonde
Way to go, Molly Rose Kaiser, for spacing out your client's appointment to preserve the integrity of her hair.
Any colorist knows that clients can often be a little impatient when it comes to making a big change, but Kaiser, a MODERN Facebook fan, followed her gut when it comes to brunette to blonde transformations: slow and steady wins the race!
Kaiser, a Las Vegas-based colorist, specializes in advanced cuts, color and extensions at Hotbox Salon. She began by under promising, and over delivering.
"In getting my beautiful brunette client to a blonde bombshell, I first explained to her that I refuse to do anything damaging to my clients' hair," she says. "And to get her to her goal blonde would be a journey we would need to take together! She was very appreciative that I was upfront and honest with her, that I would not only get her blonde, but at the end of our journey, her hair would be even healthier then when she first walked in."
It took three appointments, spaced two weeks apart, to get these brilliant results. We got in touch with Kaiser to learn how she did it!
"When my client first came in she had about 3-4 inches of new growth, with previously faded color on her ends," she says. "My lightener is Joico Vero Light on her new growth with 20-volume developer, 30-volume developer on her previously colored mid-shafts, and 10-volume developer on her ends. I did not foil this, I simply took ¼-inch horizontal sections starting in the front, put a processing cap on her and checked on her every 10 minutes until a level 7 was reached and the integrity of her hair was still intact. After processing I shampooed twice, towel dried and toned her in the shampoo bowl with 2.5oz of Paul Mitchell 9P, 1oz Paul Mitchell 10A, and .5oz Paul Mitchell 10NB, with 5-volume developer on her roots for 5 minutes then pulled through ends for another 5 minutes."
"Two weeks after her first appointment, I did Joico Vero Light with 20-volume developer, roots through ends, working from the front and changing my developer to 30-volume as I got to the back. Again this was not foiled. ¼-inch horizontal sections, roots through ends, processing cap at room temperature checking on her every 10 minutes until a level 9 was reached. This time she was toned with 2.5oz Paul Mitchell 9P, and .5 oz Paul Mitchell 10A with 5 volume developer, and as I tone all my clients, 5 minutes on the root then pull through ends for another 5 minutes at the shampoo bowl.
"Two weeks later, I used Joico Vero Light with 25-volume developer starting in the front, this time foiling my ¼-inch partings, and changing my developer to 35-volume as I worked toward the back. After a level 10-11 was reached, she was washed and toned with equal parts of Paul Mitchell UTP and UTA with 5 volume developer."
"To keep this blonde healthy and strong I sent my client home with Paul Mitchell's Forever Blonde Shampoo and conditioner and for a weekly treatment Moroccanoil's Restore Deep conditioning Mask."