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Making Up is Easy to Do

Web Editor | July 10, 2011 | 6:16 PM
     At the four Rolfs Salons in the Phoenix area, the after-service make-up retouch has revealed a shocking fact: Many women over 40 haven't changed their make-up since they were in their 20s.
    You can imagine the results.
    "At 50, you're definitely working with a new set of eyes," notes Rolfs director of marketing, Kari Stolley.
    "That's why after every hair or spa service, we do a make-up touch-up in under 15 minutes and focus on the eye," she says. "Our mature clients want modern, easy hair cuts, but their make-up also has to look up-to-date for them to look their best."
    Rolfs Salons aren't alone; a quick look at dozens of online service menus reveals that the make-up lesson, in any of several forms, is experiencing a revival.
    The pros know that a brow shaping takes off five years fast, and that a quick make-up retouch is the simplest route to a discussion about skin care. As one easy service begets another, lip waxes, facial bookings and retail sales follow.
    Why is the progression so easy? Baby Boomers are endlessly fascinated with ways to look younger, and it all starts with the face.
    "Even during our mini-make-up service, we touch on the importance of products with SPFs," says Stolley. "If there are two things mature women need, it's sun protection and compact products.
    "Women over 40 don't want the full make-up bag a 20-year-old might carryaround, which is why we added simplified kits with lots of palettes and pencils with a lipstick-and-liner in one to our own Reality Cosmetics line," she says.

Enhancing Mature Beauty
At Your Name Professional Brands in Long Island City, New York, make-up artist Kathy Pomerantz teaches "Anti- Aging Make-up," a day-long course for professionals. She says that after 40, it's all about lifting the eye, using sun protection and diffusing fine lines. A brow shaping is a great place to start.
    "Even light peach fuzz creates a dark shadow, so waxing or tweezing brows makes a big difference in lifting the eye," says Pomerantz. "As women age, theirbrows should be lighter, regardless of how dark their hair is; lighter-colored brows soften the face."
    It isn't necessary to have a dedicated make-up artist on staff to make touchups work. After a few classes and a little practice, every stylist should be able to do a simple make-up touch-up. Offering the service shows you go the extra mile, says Stolley; professional pride"and value"comes from addressing every aspect of a woman's appearance.
    Assessing the client's needs is critical. Even if young female stylists are adept at applying their own make-up, they should practice Pomerantz's professional musts when anti-aging is the aim:
    Skin Sense. When applying foundation, use light-diffusing or mineral based products with an SPF of 15 or more. Avoid cream foundations, which can settle into lines.
    Apply liquid foundation with a sponge; use a large, dome-shaped brush for lightly dusting on powder formulas. "Women hate leaving with no make-up after a facial, and now that we have mineral powders, they don't have to," says Pomerantz. "They won't irritate the skin or clog pores, and they're particularly good for mature skin because they diffuse fine lines." If there's no time for foundation at all, add a fresh glow with blush. Avoid powders; use a creme formulation that's
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