Professional Hair Color by Team Minardi
Team Minardi's Formulas
Color America with Beth Minardi took place October 20-22 at the Donald E. Stephens Conference Center in Rosemont, Illinois. Attendees witnessed professional hair color transformations from Beth Minardi, Team Minardi-Tohmas Elmlund, Shannon Briggs Hack, Tammy Laimos, Rebecca Maristany, Mark Mileti, Paula Murry and Raymond Serio-Nancy Braun from Beverly Hills and bi-coastal Myrian Touma. Here are the formulas of the professional hair color transformations.
Team Minardi's finished models.
Beth opts for a tint back with Redken Shades EQ for sheer translucent color-do not use permanent dye. Shades EQ is more acidic, thus the translucent color. She will keep some blonde near the part and around her face. For a client going blonde to brown, turn her red first since red is a color building block. For blondes, the more porous and drier the hair, the drabbier the color will grab. You don't need to use ammonia on hair that's already "broken." Orange-y-tan will hold brown. Beth's color formula is:
- 1-oz Redken Shades EQ 08WG
- 1-oz Redken Shades EQ 07C
After restoring the missing red to the blonde hair, a brown glazing color was applied. Beth used Redken Shades EQ 05G mixed with Shades EQ Color Processing Solution. Hair was processed with heat for 20 minutes before being rinsed, shampooed and conditioned.
Jen's peek-a-boo highlights are off the hairline and off part, mimicking bold hair extension pieces. Her hair was sectioned in pie-shaped sections and wrapped with back-to-back professional hair color formulas:
- Wella Magma /44
- Davines Mask 7RR with 20-volume
- John Paul Mitchell Inkworks in red
Process Luminize for 15 minutes at room temperature. Then, dry the hair. Kate's hair was highlighted with Keune Tinta Permanent Hair Color. Team Minardi mixed two separate formulas and alternated foils: 9.43 mixed with 30-volume developer and 8.34 mixed with 20-volume developer.
Danusia's hair was natural Level 7 (medium blonde). In the past, her hair had been colored with a highlift blonde shade of permanent hair color. Team Minardi converted Danusia to a pastel double process blonde. Her hair was pre-lightened with Clairol's Born Blonde Creme Hair Lightener and two lightener activators. During lightening, the hair shaft was protected and conditioned with Minardi Pre-Wash Therapy. Later, hair was toned with Wella Color Touch: 1-1/2 ounces of 9/03 and 1/2 ounce of 8/0 mixed with Color Touch Emulsion 1.9%.
Manini is a Level 1 (black). Team Minardi created "coffee with milk" highlights with Miss Clairol Creme 9 double ash (AA). L'Oreal Platinium Lightener was mixed with 40 volume developer.
Foils are vertical slices and alternate back to back. To glaze, the team used 2-oz 07G Redken Shades EQ and 1-oz Shades EQ 9NB mixed with processing lotion and processed under heat for 10 minutes.
Beth's "real salon" client Ronni is a natural Level-3 and has 50-percent gray at the nape. Overall coverage is Level 4/5.
- 1-oz 4AB Redken Color Fusion
- 1-oz 5NN Redken Color Fusion
- 2-oz 20-volume Proxide
- Process 45 minutes at room temperature
To ensure even coverage, apply vertically, check horizontally.
Zigzag lowlights were applied for dimension:
- Wella Color Touch
- 4/77 and 5/3 with Color Touch Emulsion 1.9%.
On roots for 10 minutes:
- 1 1/2-oz 7G Clairol Professional CrÃ¨me
- 1/2-oz 7R Clairol CrÃ¨me
- 10-volume developer
Team Minardi placed deep zigzag foil highlights on Margaret. In foil (some thick) they used Keune 54 for lowlights, in between foils, they used Redken Shades EQ.
For the lightener, zigzag foils throughout the head. Team Minardi used some butterfly highlights where the foils are placed midstrand to the ends, not near the scalp.
- L'OrÃ©al Professionel Platinium lightner with 30-volume (with ammonia)
- From the top of the crown down, Davines Mask
- Roots in nape, 4.6 Davines 4RMV
- Roots in front, 5.34 Davines 5GC
Lowlights: Wella Color Touch 55/54 + Emulsion 1
Nape: Redken Shades EQ 5CB
Jing received caramel highlights, glazed on prelightened hair to gold. To create sassy, dimensional hair, make some sections larger and interplay with weaves and slices.
1-oz 9NB Redken Shades EQ
1-oz 6G Shades EQ
2-oz processing solution
Team Minardi used a new product, L'Avant Garde Lights and Shades, on Nanette. They butterflied some curls in back, an inch and a half off the scalp.