Expert Advice

Stretching the Almighty Dollar

Melissa Hill | July 10, 2011 | 7:11 PM
Good news! According to recent reports the recession is starting to lighten -- although it's still going to take some time to recover. Hopefully, you're seeing or will soon be seeing upticks in client visits and retail sales, though your clients may still be looking for help in extending the time between their color appointments.

Krista Beahm, from patrick mcivor color studio in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, has two techniques she's been using to help her clients. “With the economy in its current state, I have many clients that need to stretch their haircolor as far as they can, so I’m doing much more tone-on-tone natural looking color. Instead of a full head of highlights, I’ll do face framing highlights, colored ends, or darken the new growth area, because these looks require less maintenance," says Beahm. "Instead of foiling hair at every visit, clients can go 3-4 visits without getting highlights. These techniques ensure that I keep my clients, even when they have less to spend."

Here's how she does it:

Face Framing Highlights
-- Section about 1 to 1 1/2 inches around the hairline.
-- Next, take thin, back to back, diagonal, forward sections and backcomb at the new growth area to defuse the start line of the highlight.
-- Once you get to the part of the hair (side or middle, doesn’t matter) foil about 3 to 4 foils back keeping them close together with a thin weave and backcombing the base of the hair shaft. Then, continue diagonal forward sections on the other side.
-- To finish, glaze with Matrix Color Sync for a tone on tone effect.

Subtle Dimension Without Highlights

-- The goal is to achieve a color that is darker at the base of the hair shaft and lighter through the mid-section and ends. 
-- Color new growth area 2 - 2 1/2 levels darker than original formula. 
-- Afterwards, section hair every inch or so, place a board under the new growth area and feather color down with a coloring brush to prevent a halo. Remember to take some sections farther down than others for a more natural look.
-- Glaze with Matrix Prizms.PLUS Clear for extra shine.

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