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Le Graphique

Laurel Nelson | July 10, 2011 | 8:55 PM
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Joico International Artistic Director Damien Carney created this short cut with strong edges for the Le Graphique collection. Color by Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director Sue Pemberton.
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View of sectioning pattern.
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Take a vertical parting that extends from the crown to the nape area. Note the first parting/guideline is off center. Cut a length to create a tight, fitted head shape.
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Note the crown is slightly longer in length and the nape is slightly shorter. Always adjust angles based on the overall desired shape.
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Slightly pivot using the first guideline. Overdirect the second parting to the first, the third parting to the second, and repeat the process. Overdirection creates length and weight. Adjust the overdirection as desired.
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Continue to pivot partings as before. Overdirect as desired.
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Note overdirection will create more length and weight behind the ear area.
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Continue as before. Note the elevation and that the hair is cut over the fingers.
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Note that in the nape area the hair is cut in the palm of the hand to allow for easier access to the nape area.
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Last remaining partings. Slightly elevate each parting, overdirecting each to maintain length.
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Return to original guideline and repeat the process.
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On last remaining parting, overdirect and elevate.
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Proceed to the side area. This area is the shortest length throughout the hair cut and will not connect to any other areas within the cut. Take a slightly diagonal parting at the temple/hairline area and cut as close to the head as desired.
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Continue taking slightly diagonal partings, slowly working toward vertical partings. Slightly overdirect partings to build subtle weight in the side area.
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The last remaining partings are vertical. Note the shorter area extends slightly behind the ear.
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Cross-check horizontally; refine as necessary.
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Proceed to the opposite side. Take a horizontal parting, elevate approximately 90 degrees, and cut to the desired length. The objective is to create a heavy line of graduation.
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Continue to slightly elevate each parting to create a low band of graduation.
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Continue to take horizontal partings working up toward the parting area. Use the guideline from the side area to establish and extend to the fringe/front lengths. Overdirect fringe area to maintain an angular, graphic line. Refine the line by combing the hair against the skin for greater control. Blow dry the hair smooth.
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Refine the shortest area of the cut, particularly around the temple area and hairline, using a combination of pointcutting and scissor-over-comb.
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Taper the hairline (the shortest length) using scissor-over-comb. The outline is cut close and fades into the natural hairline growth pattern.
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Repeat the process on opposite side. Only refine the outline around the ear area.
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Use the hands or cutting comb to overdirect and refine through the temple/hairline area. Slight pointing, chipping and elevation create a tapered, velvet-like finish to the hair.
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Refine the fringe area. Use the cutting comb to stabilize the line. To make the line easier to finish, tilt the head slightly downward so the hair falls slightly away from the face. Elevate as necessary to add further graduation.
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Comb the hair to opposite side and refine the front area using a combination of chipping and pointing. Note the cut’s versatility when combed in opposite directions.
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Use a combination of scissor-over-comb, chipping and pointing to enhance the nape area.
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Note the perimeter is slightly asymmetrical. Always work with the natural hairline growth pattern.
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