Hair Color Trends

Double Duty

November 30, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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1. Shampoo hair twice. Remove 50 percent of the moisture. Create three triangular sections from ear to ear. Using the end of a tail comb, slice out a fine, horizontal section a few inches above the ear. Place on foil and apply 3.78 with 10-volume developer.
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2. Directly under take a second slice. Apply ammonia-free Keratin Powder Lightener blended with 20-volume.
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3. Continue around the perimeter of the triangle with the double outlining technique, tracing the section with back-to-back foils.
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4. Repeat double slicing technique on remaining two triangular sections.
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5. Go inside the triangle and apply a ruby red shade: 6.62X with 20-volume developer.
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6. On the rest of the hair apply a plumy grape shade: 6.2 with 20-volume developer, fi lling in everywhere that was not in the triangles, blending up to the foil. Process for 15 minutes after the last application for a total of 35 minutes.
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7. Rinse the hair and apply color to the prelightened area. Color used: 6.2 plus 6N, equal parts, with 20-volume developer.
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8. Tone with Lilac Toner (22) mixed with dedicated processing lotion on damp hair for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly after processing.
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9. Begin the keratin treatment at the nape. Using brush and bowl apply Original Formula from roots to ends in ¼- to ½-inch sections.Spray on Gentle Formula where the hair is straighter.
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10. Once applied, comb through for even saturation. Process under cap for 15 minutes.
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11. Blow dry to remove moisture. Hair should not be stretched.
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12. Flatiron beginning at the nape. Iron must be between 375-450 degrees, depending on the quality of the hair. In this case the hair is more compromised at the back so start on the lower side and build to 430 at the front. Pass the iron three to seven times on each ¼-inch section to produce shine, static and slip.
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13. Comb hair as it is to be worn, there will be three days of curing time. Cut to create an inverted “U” shape at the perimeter.
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American Culture Global Creative Director Doreen Guarneri has been responsible for honing the skills of emerging talent since fi rst taking to the platform as a key educator in the 1990s. After developing her own line of smoothing treatments and color, she is all about multi-tasking, addressing color and texture in one sitting—and sometimes in one application.

“Keratin works on the cuticle layer of the hair,” she says. “Combining the keratin service with a color service is the optimum way to go. The color allows the hair to open wide permitting deeper penetration of your keratin treatment.”

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