How to Create the Undercut

Alison Alhamed | July 26, 2012 | 8:37 AM

MODERN Facebook fan Brian Jensen, a stylist and make-up artist at A Salon 7 in Reno, Nevada, shared this image on our Facebook page, and it went VIRAL! Nearly 4,000 "likes" and 900 "shares"--we knew we had to track down the how to!

Jensen, an Education Business Expert with Sexy Hair, was inspired by the summer heat. "My client loves short hair and doesn't like her hair being on her neck. So, hearing about the undercut trend lately, she kindly trusted in me and just let me start cutting," he says. "I wanted this cut to be easy for her to style, since she has naturally curly hair, yet also a style that is versatile with endless styling options. Necklines to me are key in deciding masculine or feminine styles. And hers was amazing so I knew I had to show it off."

The point in the back, he says, seemed necessary because it made her neck look elongated. "I also love the roundness in the back profile because, to me, a flat back profile screams masculinity. So I went with a beveled round shape."

Section 1: A Mohawk parting from recession to recession in a horseshoe shape, just below the crown.
Sections 2 and 3: The left front to just behind the ear and the right front to just behind the ear.
Section 4: The back.

Step 1: Take a horizontal subsection from the back parting at the nape about an 1" thick. Use a #2 guard and clipper out at a 45-degree angle.

Step 2: Drop down a horizontal section splitting the remaining section in half. Divide into 5 vertical subsections. Cutting up, start at a 45-degree angle, using the short length below, and incise up to 90 degrees. Direct the remaining subsections straight back.

Step 3: Drop down the remaining hair. Divide into three equal vertical subsections. Starting with the center, begin at a 90-degree angle and incise up to 180. Repeat with the remaining subsections directing all the hair straight back.

Steps 4 and 5: Using the same #2, shave out these sections. Connect the lower back shaved section with these ones, utilizing a classic men's barbering shape (in a C shape around the ear).

Step 6: Decide which side you want longer. For this it will be the right (when looking at her). Drop the top Mohawk section. Divide into five equal vertical sections from face to crown. Take a 1" parting vertically from the left. Using the angle created in the back, cut down, your starting point being the last section cut in the back, to a desired length. Make sure your finger angle is mirroring the angle in the back with zero elevation. Drop the next subsection and using the same finger angle, raise the section slightly above zero elevation and cut.

Step 7: Drop the right vertical section and starting with the ending angle in bak again, cut using a finger angle mirroring the angle in back and cut in a c shaping down just past the chin. Drop the next subsection and repeat using slight elevation.

Step 8: Take the middle subsection of the Mohawk parting and divide into 5 equal subsections. Starting with the back subsection, using the last length cut in back, start at a 90 and cut up out and down tapering off quickly as to not overlap the clippers part in back. Direct the next subsection back and use the shortest point cut on your last subsection as a visual reference and use the same cutting motion ending before you get to the longest length on your previously cut section. Repeat this evolving process throughout the section. This is what gives the style support for its height.

Step 9: Taking your longest side, point cut the perimeter as needed.

Using Big Sexy Hair Root Pump and Blow Dry Volumizing Gel, blow dry back and forth using the head form as your tool for volume. Then apply Straight Sexy Hair Smooth and Protect while curling the hair in various directions using a flatiron. After curled, cocktail Healthy Sexy Hair Soy Paste and Soy renewal to create a shiny, piecey texture. Finish with Healthy Sexy Hair Soy Touchable for lasting impressions with a touchable hold.

VIDEO: Inspired by Jensen's undercut from, Andis Educator Rodrick Samuels recreated the undercut with an Andis SONIC+ clipper. A licensed barber and cosmetologist, Rodrick masters multi ethnic hair and founded the Profile Barbers Institute of South Carolina.



More from Students

Load More