Expert Advice

How-To: Jet Black to Copper Using Olaplex

Lauren Quick | October 23, 2014 | 11:53 AM
Before / After

Managing lift with deep, dark haircolor is not a simple task; don't let anyone tell you any differently. Breakage is a huge concern, but Josie Sanchez, master stylist at Dop Dop Salon in NYC, was able to transform her own hair from jet black to copper red with the help of Olaplex.

"I have done a drastic color change prior to this, from dark brunette to platinum blonde, and that left my hair with very dry split ends," Sanchez says. "With Olaplex, I see a visible difference in the vibrancy of the color and shine, and my hair feels incredibly soft with little to no split ends."

Get the look

STEP 1: Divide hair into four quadrants. Begin decolorization process at the nape of the neck using L’Oréal Professionnel Platinum Plus and Olaplex with 40-volume developer. Starting from the bottom, take fine, horizontal sections working with the ends first; saturate both sides. Create a blousing in between each horizontal section so it doesn't lie flat on the head. Continue this process on all quadrants. Allow for processing time if needed or add heat if necessary.

STEP 2: Work the same mixture up the mid-shaft and continue through quadrants starting from the bottom and working up, then follow the pattern with the roots. Allow for processing time or heat if needed.

STEP 3: When root and mid-shaft area are the desired lightness, rinse and power-dry.

STEP 4: When color as dark as black has been deposited and pulled through the ends on long hair for years, there isn't' a guarantee of lifting color. A second round of decolorizing might be required for a clean lift in more stubborn areas. Use foil packets to isolate sections; this provides focus and control in the areas where lightener is place on compromised hair. 

Starting at the nape and working from the bottom up, isolate horizontal sections with back-to-back foils with a new mixture of L’Oréal Professionnel Platinum Plus, Olaplex and 40-volume developer. This gets maximum lift and spot-treats areas that lifted unevenly. Allow to process and take down sections as they reach desired lightness.

STEP 5: Rinse, then power-dry.

STEP 6: From the decolorizing process in this case, the mid-shaft and ends were at the perfect level and tone. Match the root using L’Oréal Professionnel Dia Light 6.34 and 8.34 and 6.3 with 6-volume developer.

STEP 7: To seal the cuticle and balance pH, finish with a gloss. Apply L’Oréal Professionnel Dia Light 8.30 6-volume developer for 7 minutes.

STEP 8: Use Olaplex's post-color service bonding regimen. 

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