Rose Gold: The Inside Scoop On How Practice Makes Perfect
McGlaughlin keeps mannequin heads around the salon for practice.Photo 1 of 3
McGlaughlin puts her efforts to the test on a client.Photo 2 of 3
When MODERN saw this rose gold color design on Cassandra McGlaughlin's instagram page (@CassandraPlatinum) we had to get more information. McGlaughlin, a top educator (with Paul Mitchell) and salon owner (Platinum Salon Tampa, Tampa, Florida), has learned to use whatever time she has available to test formulas and practice her art on the many mannequin heads she keeps in the salon just for that purpose. "I always encourage my stylists to practice all the time," says McGlaughlin. "Our industry is booming with real artists and the only real way to keep up is the go back to basics, to study and practice. We keep longhaired mannys in the salon and the stylists and I will bring in our own to cut and color."
McGlaughlin was intrigued by rose gold and chose to experiment at 11 at night after work. "I wanted to experiment with this formula so I figured that this manny would be the best guest," she says regarding this level 7, gold toned mannequin head that she selected. "I have been studying the many different rose golds out there and I discovered the ones I loved the most had this underlying violet glow, this was accompanied with a translucent rose, with very little actual gold. So to test my theory, I tried 2 different formulas on 2 different canvases on my mannequin. I sectioned a top triangle from recession to recession, the third point, right below the apex, careful not to go below the parietal so the underneath color could show through. I left the bottom section as is (level 7 gold) and prelightened the top triangle with Paul Mitchell SynchroLift and 20 volume. I lightened this section to a level 9, pale yellow."
Here she offers the formulas:
1. Top Triangle: Paul Mitchell Shines XG 7RV and Clear, equal parts with 5 volume XG processing cream
2. Bottom section: Shines XG 7RV Clear, equal parts, then I added a 2" ribbon of 8a and another 2" ribbon of 5VR 5 volume XG processing cream
"I chose Paul Mitchell Shines XG because as a demi- permanent haircolor, it offers slightly less opaqueness than permanent color, but more pigment that a traditional demi. I upped the translucency by using the Clear Shine...plus it leaves the hair in impeccable condition, and mannys can use all the help they can get!"
What did she learn? "I discovered that a level 9 is necessary for the true 'pinkness' to show but the deeper canvas produced the multi dimensional result, adding a more golden undertone. I found that using the gold tone from the hair instead of adding it to your formula gives the rose the spotlight and the gold a supporting role to provide that telltale glow."
McGlaughlin was able to use this formula (formula 1) to create a rose gold section over her HUMAN platinum blonde client [see pix included here]. "I also used Pm Shines 9v9rb and violet color shots for her top section. Using the manny gave me the information I needed to be able to use this on an actual guest. Now I'm getting so many requests for this color from so many different guests. I've thought about using it as a lowlight in a blonde or a base color in an ombre."
Obviously this effort was worth it. "What this practice did for me was a major burst of creativity. There's something so freeing as an artist to be able to create your exact vision with a color, mannys don’t have much of an opinion."