Hair Color Trends

Chunking: The New (Old) Trend

Maggie Mulhern | November 12, 2014 | 8:58 AM
Kelly Jones sports some nice "chunking".
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Caroly Bessette-Kennedy with subtle chunking.
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Backe's "chunking" muse
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"Chunking" at Carmen Marc Valvo
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Another "chunking" muse.
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Jason Backe, haircolorist supreme, is ready to embrace a new (actually old) color design. "In an era of Ombre and Balayage, as I scroll through instagram, Im starting to feel like it all looks the same," says Backe, co-founder of the Ted Gibson Salons and L'Oreal Professionnel Brand Ambassador. "Yes, its gorgeous, yes it’s going to be around for a long time and yes it will pay the mortgage honey!!! That said, I’m getting a little bored of it which has led me to being inspired by haircolor from the 90's. Its bold, its sexy, and makes a statement - after all, your number one accessory - your hair - is your biggest statement.”

When Backe was a young colorist in NYC, he says  “There was one person to look up to... Brad Johns. As far as color was concerned he was THE MAN! At the time he was famous for ‘Chunking’ and the ‘Butter Blond’ (think Carolyn Bessette Kennedy). I am really inspired by his work and I am having a lot of fun using his inspiration to create my own version of sexy, bold haircolor that says something about who you are when you walk in the room.”

Here Backe offers some recent examples:

Chunking 1:
I found a muse - @cwhit124 I loved working with you!!! #beforeandafter @cindycrawford circa 1992 highlight - base color @inoaprous 5.12, highlight #magimeches 30vol - no gloss, I loved the "rawness" of the ribbon. If it were glossed it would lose its edge and be too pretty. #gobold #gibsongirlsruletheworld #tedgibsonadvancedacademy @lorealprous

Chunking 2:
Kelly Jones - highlights Infini Platine 20 vol - all hidden from part and hairline, back to back slices. Paint between Diarichesse 6.3 15volume. Gloss DiaLight 10.23 15vol - You know she loves it when she sends you a selfie!!!

Chunking 3:
So long goldielocks. Its all about cool tones for me right now. #beforeandafter #model #tedgibsonadvancedacademy @lorealprous @dempseyfairy bold highlights #infineplatine 30vol, paintbetween #diarichess 6.13 15vol, gloss #dialight 10.21 15vol

Carmen Marc Valvo:
Taking the silver trend to a new place with chunking. Using a level 10 blond weft we colored with 20g INOA 9.11 + 1g INOA 2.10 and 20g INOA Clear with 10vol. A 1.5' piece of the weft was pinned in just under the part to give that Mrs Robinson chicness.

MODERN checked in with Backe to get more information:

MODERN: WHY do you think it is a new trend? 

Backe: This is a new trend I am seeing on the young and chic around the city. It's catching on because people want to do something different. When every girl you know has ombre, it's time to step out and be unique. The 90's also have a huge influence in fashion right now so it only makes sense that it will translate to hair.

MODERN: What TIPS do you have to create the perfect "chunk":

Backe: The great thing about these bold chunks is that they can be painted on or done in foils. Let you consultation determine the placement and variation in tone. A level 8 chunk on a level leve 4 will be very dramatic while a level 10 on a level 7 will be softer. This haircolor trend is all about expression. Show your guest that the chunks can be right off the part or coming from the interior depeneding on where she moves her part.

MODERN: Can chunking be used for lowlights?

Backe: ABSOLUTELY! The trick is to not put lowlights right on the part or coming off the hairline. Doing so would take away the sophistication of the look and make it look too stripe-y.

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