How-To: Modern Geometric Cut by Ruth Roche
In this final of her three-part trend series for fall 2014, Pureology Serious Color Care Artistic Ambassador Ruth Roche is sharing her steps for a modern geometric cut. The cut is short with lean, small sides and a longer top that is curved and geometric in feel. It's havy like '60s styles, but the texturizing keeps it sleek and modern.
“This modern geometric cut incorporates the menswear-for-women and '60s vibes of the season," Roche says. "It’s a short cut with more texture than the original '60s look, the undercutting echoes the shape-on-shape trend, and the vibrant red color really makes it pop.”
For the color, Roche created a horseshoe-section on a natural level 10. She applied Redken Shades EQ 06CC at base and worked out to 08CC on the ends. "So what you get on the top is a deep underneath base and a pop of the lighter 06CC coming through," Roche says.
HOW-TO: MODERN GEOMETRIC CUT
STEP 1: Create a horseshoe section on top and clip out of the way. Underneath, pull vertical sections straight out from the head and use a razor for the back.
STEP 2: For the top, cut on dry hair. "Have some fun," Roche says. "You don't always have to cut hair wet." Point-cut with shears to keep long enough to lie over the previously razored sections Shears are used here to create a textured edge with thickness.
Pro tip: When point-cutting on dry hair, hold fingers one inch above the guide line so the points of the shears can go past the guide line and create a softer texture.
STEP 3: To break the heaviness in the front and still keep the style flat to the head, use Roche's curtain technique: pinch small sections of the hair between the thumb and index finger, and with the shear about one inch from the perimeter, work out to the perimeter to bevel a little weight off and break up the edge.