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WELL! This Is QUITE The Color Journey! How To Here

Maggie Mulhern | December 1, 2014 | 7:54 AM

 

  Deirdre Petrie   (@ _Deirdre__ ), a Master Hair Designer and Salon Manager for  The Salon at  ULTA   (a Redken fo  cus and endorsed salon), in the Destiny USA mall of Syracuse NY, has just celebrated her 2 year anniversar y with ULTA, "and could not be happier." When MODERN found this finish on instagram, we just had to learn more. Here Petrie offers the overview and HOW TO: 

 

"My client Whitney came to me with a faded copper red, in need of a fresh change. This is just a little bit of our journey to something that coincided with her bold personality, and fun sense of humor.

 

 

 We first started about a year ago with a customized formula using a color removal mixture, and finishing the service with 2 parts Pravana Wild orchid , 1 part Pravana Magenta, 1 part Pravana Clear, and a small ribbon of Pravana Pink. 

 

 

 

 

A few months later, Whitney had returned with the faded Wild Orchid ( a pretty rose gold hue) and about 2 inches of regrowth.

 

Step 1: Starting with her retouch in Zone 1: apply 2 scoops ( 2oz) Redken Flash Lift to 2oz 20vol Redken Pro-Oxide Cream Developer . Cap and processed for 25 minutes without heat. 

 

Step 2: At the sink while rinsing Zone 1 application, apply a color removal formula of 2 scoops (2oz) Flash Lift to 2oz 10vol Redken Cream developer to 1oz Redken Hair Cleansing Cream shampoo. Apply and gently emulsified into damp/wet hair in Zone 2 and Zone 3. 

 

Step 3: Rinse and shampoo using Redken Extreme. Towel dry and then generously spray Redken CAT Protein Reconstructor throughout hair. Process at sink for 4 minutes, rinse, and VERY thoroughly towel dried at the sink.

 

Step 4: Glaze to create a more even and cool balance and base for her final step. Apply 1 1/2oz Redken Shades EQ Gloss Clear 000 , 1/2oz Shades EQ Gloss 09V, 1/4oz Shades Gloss in 09b and 2 1/4oz Processing Solution. Cap and process under medium heat for 15 minutes, and 5 extra minutes to cool. Rinse with luke warm water thoroughly until the water runs clear, and rough blow dried until 100% of moisture was removed.

 

Step 5: Now apply a custom Pravana mix. In Zone 1: 2 oz Pravana Clear, a thin ribbon size amount of Pravana Violet, a bead of Wild Orchid, and Silver.

 

 

Step 6: Pull the remaining mixture through Zone 2 and 3.

 

Step 7: Process with cap under low heat for 20 minutes, 5 minutes to cool.

 

Step 8: Shampoo and condition using Redken Color Magnetics and cool water. 

 

Cut and Style:  "Whitney's style was reshaped with a soft and subtle back angled bob. Her layers cut in a 45 degree angle, over directing both front sections slightly to keep the weight balanced. I created soft and polished movement using the invisible layer technique in her interior. She was styled using Redken 07 Full Frame Volumizing Mouse, and Redken 07 Velvet Gelatine cushion blow dry gel (one of my all time favorites!)  I completed her cut with some 'fine tuning' and detailing with  a deep, soft point cut throughout."

 

EXTRA: 

After that adventure with the Violet, Whitney had faded to a pretty soft pink! 

 

 

 

 

We tried something a little different by following the same retouch and color removal process, but formulating a different mixture for the finishing touch:

 

Step 9: Take a horseshoe section (from the hairline, back to the crown, and including about 1 1/2 inch to each side of her part)

Step 10: Glaze with 1/2 oz Shades Eq Gloss 09T, 1/2oz 09v, 1/2 clear 000 and 1 1/2oz Shades Processing Solution.

Step 11: The remainder of her hair is colored root to end with 1oz Pravana Clear,  ribbon of Pravana Violet and thin ribbon of pravana silver.

Step 12: Complete the color correction service with a KeraStraight Protien and Moisture mask, applied at the sink after shampoo. Blow dry the product in to the hair using a paddle brush, 30 seconds of a cool shot. Rinse.

 

TIP: "The Kerastraight Moisture or Protein mask is an amazing add on service," says Petrie. "Not only is it a great way to increase your average ticket, your guests hair is left feeling stronger, and more supple then before your color service. It can last between 4-6 weeks and keeps the hair from becoming limp and lackluster to soon before their next appointment."

 

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