Formula How-To: Lakme Collage Gray Coverage
Lakme shares this step by step color tutorial, outlining the formulation and application techniques to achieve complete gray coverage using Collage, the brand’s permanent cream color line. Collage is PPD free and is formulated with conditioning soy protein, cationic polymers and UVA/UVB filters to create intense and long-lasting coverage.
1. Before color application, always facilitate a proper scalp analysis to ensure that there are no irritations or abrasions. If the client has a history of sensitivity, utilize Master Care Scalp Protector, Lakme’s dermal scalp buffer. Apply it directly on the scalp prior to the color service.
2. For accurate formulation, begin by determining the client’s natural level at the crown. Next, select the desired level and make note of the contributing underlying pigment. Select the target tone and assess the percentage of unpigmented hair. Then incorporate the same amount of natural into your formula in order to achieve proper grey coverage. For example, if the client is 50% grey, then 50% of the formula should be a natural and the other 50% a target shade.
Choose from 00, a cool natural, 00+ a cool natural for resistant grey, or 06, a warm natural. When formulating with 00 or 00+ remember to incorporate a warm target shade when the client is 75% grey or more.
For clients that are 100% grey, mix a 4 to 1 ratio. For example, 60mls of natural and 15mls of target shade. If you want to decrease the amount of color, utilize a scale, and measure 40 grams of Natural to 10 grams of Target Shade.
3. Your choice of developer will be determined by the percentage of grey and the levels of lift necessary to achieve your target level. If the client is over 25% grey always utilize 20 volume which is for maximum grey coverage. If the client is below 25% grey use the developer that corresponds to the level of lift. Collage Hydrox developers range from 10 to 40 volume. Remember, any and all Collage and Collage+ colors can be mixed together.
4. The model is a natural level 7 and has varying percentages of grey between 25% and 75%. Her formula will be 45 mls of 7/00 and 15 mls of 7/60, mixed with 90mls of Hydrox 20 vol. developer. The mixing ratio for Collage is 1 part color to 1.5 parts developer.
5. Since this is a retouch, we’ll apply color beginning at the regrowth. Proper formulation and application will always ensure perfect coverage. Sections should be no thicker than 1/8 of an inch and color should be applied on both sides of the hair.
6. Processing time is 40 min, particularly for resistant grey.
7. Next to color balance and refresh the midshafts and ends, utilize Master Care Lotion to balance porosity and guarantee an even end result.
8. Use the Collage target shade without the natural mix with 10 volume developer, or mix the appropriate formula in gloss, Lakme’s ammonia-free, demi-permanent haircolor. The mixing ratio for gloss is 1 part color and 2 parts Long Lasting Developing Emulsion. When the color is ready to be removed, emulsify into the hairline and use Lakme Master Care Stain Remover prior to shampooing the hair.
9. Next shampoo and condition with Lakme Teknia Color Stay. Both contain a weak amino acid complex, UVA/UVB filters and antioxidants to protect the hair fiber from sun and environmental stresses. Lakme Teknia Color Stay Shampoo and Conditioner should be utilized at the back bar and available for retail.
10. Next, follow with L2, Lakme’s pH balancing leave-in detangler to seal in color.
11. Finally, to style and finish our model, use K.Style Cool Top-Ten balm to protect the hair and keep it healthy and brilliant.
For more information, visit lakmeusa.com.