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Pale Plum Sombre

Maggie Mulhern | February 9, 2015 | 6:00 AM
BEFORE
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Pale Plum Sombre
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Brittany Fritchley (@britts_hair__art) of Exclusive Beauty Salon in Stockton, CA. says she is "not your average hair stylist. I see myself as a non-conventional colorist who likes to break the rules. Not everyone would go about this color the same as I did. But thats the beauty of this business/industry, there is no right or wrong, everyone's talents and past experiences with hair make them the stylist they are today."


Fritchley has doing this client's hair for about 5 years now. "This client was a virgin to color just 2 short years ago," she says. "With her natural level 5, I slowly took her lighter and lighter. The first few times I colored her hair we started subtle with just heavy highlights all over with a low volume developer. We then turned those highlights into an Ombre for lower maintenance. Just 3 months ago she came in wanting something wild and I couldn't wait! We deepend her base with a beautiful deep dark plum color (Pravana 5.7 mixed with Pravana 4.4) and then followed her ends up with a few different tones of purple. We both fell in love. Now, 3 months later we were left with all the purple washed out and her base  now a washed out level 6 or 7 with gold and red undertones. Last week she came in wanting something different, high fashion, something created just for her, that no one else could have."

According to Fritchley, having the purple in her hair made her more adventurous for the 2nd round. "She came to me with no idea on what she wanted but insisted on going as light as possible so she could play with all the fashion colors down the line if she wanted. I had been dreaming of all the beautiful greys, silvers, pinks and purples that I had been seeing all over the fashion industry so I told her I had something in mind. She fully trusted my judgment and left the rest up to me."

 

Here Fritchley offers the HOW TO:

Formula 1: Base color, 20 vol developer with Pravana 8.11 and ASH by Pravana
Formula 2: Foils, 30 vol developer with B Diamond bleach
Formula 3: Painted on, 30 vol developer with B diamond Bleach and 1oz 000 from Pravana
Formula 4: First Toner, 10 vol and Pravana 8.11
Formula 5: Second Toner, mixed 3oz. of Pravana Clear, 1oz. of Joico Titanium, 1/2 oz. Joico Purple and conditioner ("Helps the porosity or her hair, applies more evenly, and dilutes the color just enough to achieve the light color I wanted")


Technique:

Step 1: Create a T-part. Apply formula 1 to base starting at the darkest point (the back). Once fully applied, comb down 2 inches for blending.

Step 2: Apply formula 2 taking diagonal sections starting from the back sections. Lightly paint on balayage highlights to break up the base a little and move the line of demarcation up an inch or 2. Repeat with same diagonal sections in front with same formula (freshly mixed) and make sure to leave pieces out around the face to balayage later.

Step 3: After all foils are in place, free hand paint on formula #3 on all the remaining hair left our of foils and add balayage pieces around the face. "By this time I knew most of her color has had ample time to  process so Formula 3 would not have to be on long. My goal was to go as light as possible but I did not want to risk the integrity of her hair. She has a massive amount of beautiful healthy hair and I wanted to keep it that way. That is why I chose to mix a lightener booster 000 from Pravana to help with a little extra lift at the end...breaking the rules!)"

Step 4: Process at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Step 5: While at the bowl rinse and emulsify. "She was still left with gold and yellow hues, which we wanted to get rid of because she wanted to prep her hair for fashion colors later on, like the pastels or neons from Pravana that she plans to try next."

Step 6: Shampoo well and prepare to tone to get the last little unwanted tones out before applying the final color. Towel dry.

Step 7: Generoursly apply formula #4 to get any unwanted gold and yellow tones out, making sure to concentrate it in those areas. Process for 2-3 mins and then rinse and towel dry.

Step 8:  Apply formula #5 on damp hair. "I did not completly dry her hair before applying because she wanted her hair to still be considered 'in the blonde family'. We just wanted a light faint tone of the color."

Step 9: Process with low heat for 20 minutes. Rinse with cool water.

Step 10: Finish with Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Conditioning treatment for 10 minutes.

 

A photo posted by Brittany (@britts_hair__art) on

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