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TRANSFORMATION: Strawberry Sorbet Haircolor

Maggie Mulhern | March 6, 2015 | 9:20 AM

Eric Anthony, an artist at Canyon Salon in Westlake Village, California, shares that his model, a natural level 4, had multiple layers of previously colored hair. "She had some fun with various dark browns and reds. My mission was to remove all color while keeping her fine hair as healthy as possible." The mission also included giving her a pretty and dimensional pink.

 

Here he shares the steps:

 

Note:

I always use 10-volume developer when applying bleach in foil. This keeps the cuticle from swelling too much, making the hair coarse. The hair remains soft and flexible.

 

Step 1: Stimulate cuticle

Begin with a very quick, off-the-scalp application of WELLA Blondor Multi-Blonde Powder Lightener and 10 volume Koleston Perfect Creme Developer. Process hair for 10 minutes and rinse. (no shampoo). The goal with this quick application, is to simply stimulate the cuticle and prepare the hair for the actual color removal process. It makes a big difference for the following step.

 

Step 2: Color-removal

Taking very fine sections, apply back-to-back, well-saturated foils. Use an equal-parts mix of WELLA, Blondor Soft Lightening Creme and Blondor Multi-Blonde Powder Lightener. The developer is 2-parts WELLA, 10 volume Koleston Perfect Creme Developer.

Process for 30 minutes, wash and reconstruct with a mix of Joico K-Pak Professional H.K.P. Liquid Protein Chemical Perfector and Caviar, Fix & Fill treatment masque. Leave in hair for 20 minutes (no heat) and rinse.

 

Repeat Step 2 (entirely) lifting to a very light, pale yellow blonde.

 

Step 3: Lighten base

Without overlapping previously lightened hair, apply WELLA, Blondor Soft Lightening Creme and 10 volume Koleston Perfect Creme Developer to the base. It took about 30 minutes to lift to pale yellow. Rinse well and gently shampoo all lightener from hair. (do not stimulate scalp too much)

 

Step 4: Lower PH

It is essential to lower the PH balance of thehair before toning. This ensures a balanced color from root to end. After washing lightener from hair, apply WELLA, Color Post Treatment all over and process for five minutes. Rinse.

 

Step 5: Tone to platinum

For the toner, apply WELLA Koleston Perfect 10/16 mixed with 2-parts WELLA Pastel Developer. Process 20 minutes.

 

Step 6: PLATINUM-PINK

Blend 2 formulas of WELLA RELIGHTS for the pink coloring process:

Formula 1, the lowlight formula: 20Grams /00 to 7Grams /56. This was foiled on the top.

Formula 2, overall base formula: 40Grams /00 to 5Grams /56. Wella Color Touch 1.9 Developer was used for both formulas. 

For the platinum contrast, use equal-parts mix, of Lightener, shampoo and 10-vol developer. (This is done while color is processing)  Dip a towel in this mixture and wipee random pieces throughout the hair. The color comes up quickly, so it is imperative to work in small sections. The goal here is to simply remove the pink and expose the platinum toned hair. Once achieved, wipe the lightener mix off.

Process for 20 minutes. Rinse, shampoo and use the post treatment.

 

 

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