HOW TO: All About Sombre

Maggie Mulhern | April 29, 2015 | 5:48 AM
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Gina Bianca (@THE_HAIR_DOCTOR), the queen of sharing, is now even sharing her secret Sombré and Color Melt Techniques, including her "Perfect Pearl" formulas. This client represents the best of multiple techniques. “She came in ready to be blonde! She wanted a natural sombré and gave me free range to do whatever I wanted. Her hair was a virgin level 7 ashy blonde with some previous highlights on the ends. She had no budget so I pulled out the big guns and used a bond builder to create this magical sombré!"

When asked to define sombre, Bianca shares her definition:  "Sombre is just like ombre except with tiny highlights at the roots. At Gina Bianca Hair (Southington, CT), our sombré technique combines teasy-lights, baby-lights and large ombre slices to create a full coverage but natural blonde." 

Here she shares the HOW TO for this perfect sombre:

Step 1: Section hair into 4 sections: Mowhawk, sides and back. Blend formula 1: 3 scoops of Wella Blonder with 30 volume and a bond builder.

Step 2: Starting in the back, take horizontal sections about 2 inches wide (may vary depending on texture of hair) and use your foiling comb to back comb the hair slightly so there is a diffused line. We recommend 3 combs to just add some texture then hand paint thick horizontal ombre slices, feathering off the texture you just added in. Continue this pattern up the head.

Step 3: Move on to the sides, start by taking tiny diagonal sections off the hairline and adding some baby fine weaves. We suggest weaving a weave to ensure the section is tiny enough. Start by weaving two sections then start adding horozontal ombre slices (with texture combing) starting at the ear and working your way up the head. Repeat on other side

Step 4: Remix Lightener but this time use 40 volume Blondor with bond builder to bump it up so the top can process with the bottom and sides. Start at the front hairline and do two baby fine weaves. Next, proceed to add horizontal ombre slices with texture (same as the bottom) about 1 inch wide. Your pattern should be weave/slice/weave/slice make sure you're ending on a tiny baby weave at apex so the back looks soft and blended with the top. 

Step 5: Process for 30 minutes or until desired lift is achieved.

Step 6: Next, take guest to sink and rinse out all of the lightener. Using Paul Mitchell’s “The Conditoner” work through hair and comb out the texture using a Wet Brush.

Step 7: Tone at the bowl using Paul Mitchell.  For the roots, use a bottle application and mix 1 OZ 6NB PM Shines and 1.5 OZ 9V (w/ equal parts processing liquid) + a bond builder for the perfect pearl natural. Apply this to the clients roots and mid shaft. Quickly, use the bottle tip and section away the front hairline and wipe with a wet towel so the front hairline doesn't get too dark. "We want there to be brightness around the face."

Step 6: Next, mix PM SHINES 9V with processing liquid + bond builder and apply to the rest of the hair, overlapping with the first toner to create a “melty effect”.

Step 7: Process for 20-25 minutes then rinse and apply a bond builder for 10-20 minutes (depending on the the clients hair.)

Step 8: Shampoo, Condition and finish with an Awapuhi Wild Ginger Keratriplex treatment to lock everything in and ensure shine + condition. Rinse, Cut and style as desired.

Recommended pricing: We price based on time - this start to finish look took about 3 hours at $125/hour = $375

Or A la Carte

Sombre: $175

Olaplex: $55

Glaze: $45

Haircut: $45 

Curls: $25

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