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From Stripey and Fragile to Natural-Looking and Healthy

Maggie Mulhern | May 5, 2015 | 7:28 PM
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Catherine Wood (@callista132), based at Platinum Salon, Tampa, Fl, says "Hair is a great way to express oneself and have fun. The best part of my job is making people feel great about themselves."

Wood's guest came in with previously highlighted hair.  A fellow cosmetologist, this guest has had a long history with changing hair colors. "This resulted in a fragile, uneven canvas," says Wood. "She wanted to go back to a softer, more natural look but still wanted to keep her dimension.  It was important to achieve this look without further damaging her hair." Wood pulled out the products and tools that she felt would offer a shiny,  healthy end result: "Paul Mitchell Shines XG and PM Shines, both ammonia free conditioning demi-permanent hair colors."

Wood shares her color correction, which beging by preparing the following formulas:

Formula 1: PM Shines XG 6N and 6NB (equal parts) with 5 volume developer.

Formula 2: PM Shines 7N and 6NB (2:1) with processing liquid. 

Formula 3:  PM shines clear with processing liquid.

Step 1:  Create four standard sections using the natural part of the guest.

Step 2:  Apply Formula 1 starting at the scalp and feathering one inch down.  Continue throughout all four sections.

Step 3: Start in the back two sections in the nape area.  Working the sections horizontally and side by side, hand paint the Formula 1 into the mid lengths using the existing canvas as a guide for the color melt.

Step 4:  Using Formula 2,  hand paint, stopping about one to two inches above the ends.  It is important to make sure each section is unique but purposeful in order to create an organic color melt.  Apply Formula 3 to the remaining hair.

Step 5:  On the front two sections work diagonally back.  To maintain the lighter canvas in the front, only feather Formula 1 just past the highlight regrowth, using more of formula 2  and 3 in the color melt.

Step 6:   Process for 20 minutes. Shampoo and condition with Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger Moisture Lather Shampoo and Cream Rinse. 

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