From Compromised To Tasteful Sombre

Maggie Mulhern | May 6, 2015 | 7:14 PM
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Amanda LoCastro (@HairByAmanduhh) of DiRosa Haircare, Franklin Square, NY, says, "hair is my passion and I truly love what I do!" A color specialist, LoCastro still cuts and styles as well. She had her hands full with this situation. Here she shares the story in her own words:


This client came in with extremely compromised hair. Her mother had been doing her hair at home (a licensed cosmetologist), and last year bleached her out 7 times, in 24 hours, to make her the whitest platinum blonde imaginable. Naturally this resulted in a lot of breakage, and hair with complete lack of pigment that just completely rejected color. A few months later her mother made her a level 3 with highlights. The hair was super broken.  I did not want to put any lightener on her already stressed hair. She desires a blonde on blonde look- but repairing and maintaining the integrity of the hair is my main concern! All good things happen in time.

FORMULA A: Base color:  Goldwell 40 ml 10 volume 20ml 5b 20ml 6b

FORMULA B: Goldwell Colorance 60 ml Colorance developer 30 ml 8sb 1/8 Olaplex step 1.

Step 1: Decolorize the hair with Goldwell Color Remover from roots to ends- starting in the darkest areas. Cap and put under moderate heat, and process for 20 minutes.

Step 2: Clarify the hair twice to force out any shrunken pigment.

Step 3: Reapply the color remover on towel dried hair. Cap and process for 20 minutes under moderate heat.

Step 4: Clarify the hair twice and do a silk wash (Goldwell Silk Lift and 30 volume developer mixed with clarifying shampoo) to prevent the hair from going dark again. Emulsify for 5 minutes. Condition hair and blow dry.

Step 5: Apply formula A to base and feather into ends. Allow to process for 25 minutes.

Step 6: Shampoo hair and apply formula B from scalp to ends for 10 minutes. Rinse.  Apply Olaplex step 2 from roots to ends for 15 minutes. Shampoo, condition, cut and style.

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