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Sunflower Color Melt

Maggie Mulhern | May 7, 2015 | 7:42 AM

"My client found me on Instagram," says Toni Rose Larson (@HAIRITAGESALONCARLSBAD), owner and stylist at @Hairitage Salon. "The photo she pulled up on her phone when she walked into my salon was my pastel waterfall girl [see link below]. My first thought was, I will need a 2 appointment sitting to achieve a color melt such as this. She drove from LA, Just about a 3 hour drive. I realized that I must tap into my creative side, and get formulating on my several different techniques on de-colorizing the hair. I said to myself... I must accommodate her and achieve the look that she desires within 8 hours. I got busy doing what I LOVE: melting color to achieve the flawless, seamless melt!" 

Here she shares the HOW TO:

"My client is a natural level 6/7 at her base to mid-shaft with grown out highlights leaving me with a level 8 & 9 through her ends. De-colorizing hair at this starting point can be challenging and NOT compromising the integrity of the hair is at the utmost importance. I am always asked by stylist on IG, FB and email: what are my de-colorizing techniques? Well...I have several ways in which I create my canvas. Each and every client is different, but I will get into detail on this particular client:

De-Colorizing Formulation and how to:

#1 Base to mid-shaft Lightener + Olaplex & 30 Volume

#2 Mid-Shaft Lightener + Olaplex & 20 Volume

#3 Ends Lightener + Olaplex & 10 Volume

Create 3 sections: isolate a triangle section that begins behind the middle of her ears and ending at the occipital and crown. Isolate the two remaining sections and clip aside. Beginning at the nape and working up towards the crown of her head, take 1/4 inch partings. Apply formula  #1, #2 & #3 simultaneously, making sure to NOT to overlap. Place hair in foils. Apply to remaining 2 sections in the same manner. Processing time will vary. I keep my eyes on this to assure that the integrity of my clients hair is not compromised in any way. NO HEAT, process at room temperature lifting to level 10 from base to mid-shaft and a level 9 from mid-shaft to ends. I was shooting for a level 10 on clients ends with out creating damage and BINGO I got there. After shampoo, apply Olaplex Bond Perfector #2 and process for 10 minutes. Shampoo, rinse & condition with ColorProof Heal & Repair, rinse. 

Desired levels have been achieved although my goal is to cancel any gold that remains in her hair. From mid-shaft up to clients ends there is a slight underlying pigment of gold so I toned her with Redken Shades 09V, applying at the shampoo bowl on wet hair. I applied away from her base and only to her mid-shaft and up to her ends. This process took 5 minutes. Keep an eye on the color and rinse when the desired tone is achieved. Shampoo and condition with ColorProof. Blow dry hair.

 

All Pravana used for the following: 

Formulation 

#1...Too Cute Coral + Orange + Neon Orange 

#2...Yellow + Neon Yellow + Clear 

#3...Blissful Blue + Neon Blue 

Step 1: Create 3 sections, the same sectioning that was used for de-colorizing, beginning at the nape and working up towards the triangle section. Apply Formula #1 to base only approximately 1inch, clip aside. Apply to remaining 2 sections in the same manner. I implement this technique when I want my color to stay put, dry a little, and create a seamless melt with definition when color melting with the same formulation.

Step 2: Apply Formulas #1 #2 and #3 simultaneously. Always be Creative! Begin at the nape and work up towards the triangle section and then apply to the two remaining sections. 

Step 3: Grab a few towels...the ones you don't really care about! (You will be wiping your hands a lot.) Each and every time a color is applied grab that towel clean your gloves off prior to applying the next color to ensure that your not creating an un-desired tone or color. 

Step 4: For this Color Melt I want to create a seamless melt with no visible lines. At the same time the goal is to add an additional teal color between the yellow to blue formulation. While applying formula #3 I color melt into formula #2 moving color into her hair until my desired color was achieved. Continue to make sure to keep ends true to tone, (this is where the towels come in handy!)

Step 5: After all color has been applied, wipe her ends with a towel and reapply formula #3 to the ends. This will ensure the true tone of the blue.

Step 6: Process for 45 Minutes at room temperature. Rinse in COLD water. Shampoo lightly and condition. Blow dry and style. 

For my Fashion Color clients I include home care products in the cost of the service. This way we are both comfortable with the gradual and natural fading process that comes along with having these shades. My clients leave my salon with Pravana Chromasilk Vivids Color Protecting Shampoo and Conditioner along with Pravana Dry Shampoo. I instruct my clients to wash their hair in COLD water, no more than twice a week and use a dry shampoo in between regular shampooing. If my clients are in need of styling products I send them home with products with in the Pravana Nevo styling line."

 

 

 

 

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