Expert Advice

Zotos How-To: Transition from Single-Process to Dimensional Brunette

Elizabeth Jakaitis | May 11, 2015 | 8:14 AM

This technique by Mike Petrizzi, artistic director for Zotos AGEbeautiful, is designed for that single-process client who suddenly wants a full head of dimensional work. An effective, time-conscious and artistic approach, it will give her the look of hours of work in a fraction of the time.

“Do it by using an artistic eye to place pivotal accent bits that will pack maximum punch,” Petrizzi says. “Begin analyzing the hair and deciding what’s needed. Is the base too monochromatic, too dark or too washed out? Here, the model had a rich base color with about 35 percent gray, but the overall feel had become very one-note brown. I wanted to add cool caramel and tawny toffee bits, focusing on the ends, while slightly lightning the base and covering the gray.”


Natural level 5

Formula 1: Zotos AGEbeautiful Crème Lightener with 20-volume developer, mixed to a whipped cream consistency, in a 1:1 ratio

Formula 2: 2 oz AGEbeautiful 5N Permanent Hair Color and 2 oz 20-volume developer

Formula 3: 2 oz AGEbeautiful 6G with 2 oz demipermanent developer

Formula 4: 1 oz AGEbeautiful Clear Shine with 1 oz demipermanent developer

1. Find a jumping off point, typically toward the back and the nape, on the bottom perimeter of the cut. Isolate the first section in this area. Using a heavy weave/slice/weave pattern, apply Formula 1, focusing on mid-lengths and ends. Seal the sections in foils.

2. Take the next foiled section directly underneath your last foil. Repeat the application pattern in this foil, and apply the lightening formula even farther down the hair shaft.

3. Repeat the process in 5-8 more areas. Choose focal points that will really pop at the bottom of the cut, in the temple and in the face-framing areas.

4. After your last foil is wrapped, apply Formula 2 on the entire root area and in between the foils. Process 45 minutes for maximum gray coverage. Then rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and lightly condition ends.

5. Apply Formula 3 from roots to mid-lengths.

6. Using a bottle, apply Formula 4 to ends. Process 20 minutes; rinse, shampoo and condition.

Hair color: Mike Petrizzi
Styling: Nick Antiaris
Makeup: Lynda Esparza
Photography: Jacqueline Cook

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