FORMULA: Stormy Blonde

Maggie Mulhern | June 21, 2015 | 10:41 PM
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Apply color off the scalp and then after processing, go back in and apply to the scalp.
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Gold band of permanent haircolor.
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Second application of lightener on damp hair, on BAND only.
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The finished result!
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Tracy Vasquez, owner and hairstylist of Scotch Bonnet Hair Studio, West Palm Beach, FL, specializes in color, razor and curly hair, and offers advanced training classes in her studio. It was this transformation that caught our eye. "Emilie's last shade was 'smokey blonde'.  I had deepened it slightly with ash level 6 on the base and smokey gray platinum on the midshaf and ends. She wanted to go back to being platinum all over." The result is quite stormy.

We reached out to Vasquez to share the HOW TO on Emilie, her natural level 7 client:

A. BES cream lightener w/ 30 vol.
B. BES cream  lightener w/ 20vol.
C. 2pt G.10 + 1pt G11 dbl. N.1 developer ("This is a slate and a pale silver...both have blue/violet undertones.")

STEP 1: Apply formula A from 1/2" off scalp to previous platinum.

STEP 2: Apply formula B to the scalp. ("I anticipated a band where we had previously colored.")

STEP 3: Process until the root is palest yellow. Rinse.  

STEP 4: Apply Emulsion D at the bowl ("product w/ a 2.5 pH to balance the hair pH again".) Shampoo with Purely Perfect Cleansing Creme. 

STEP 5: While hair is still damp, carefully re-apply formula A to the gold band. Process for approximately 15 minutes with plastic wrap placed gently over the head. Rinse. Apply Emulsion D and then shampoo and rinse.

STEP 6: Isolate the top of the hair above the rounds of the head. Apply formula C to the hair under this section, starting at the scalp and working through the ends. Then apply the same formula to the top section ("This gives the bottom a head start and keeps the top a little lighter.") Process 5 minutes and then shampoo.

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