Using An Old School Trick For A New School Shade

Maggie Mulhern | July 7, 2015 | 4:03 PM

Kara Dawson (@hairbykara___) of Pucci Salon, Scottsdale, Arizona, says "My client, Khrystynia, contacted me after seeing a red to silver transformation I recently did. With that client I had done some research about formulations providing the best silver/white tones, during which I discovered Pravana Silver thinking this was answer…wrong! They are back ordered, but that did provide me with a good start for this transformation. Khrystynia then informed me she wanted more grey then silver."

Dawson went back to the drawing board. She checked in with colleagues for advice. "I did a few color formulations and color swatches coming up with grey but not the 'perfect grey'. One of my co-workers suggested Wella Color Charm T14, an old school trick he uses on his grey/white clients to eliminate yellow. It worked! It was strong enough to pull the yellow and provide a slight sliver tone to my swatch." But another wrinkle turned in to something positive. "During my consult I discovered she had been letting her hair grow, not sure what direction she wanted to go. This, in turn, was a blessing to me for this transformation." Dawson notes: starting level 7 virgin hair from roots to mid-shaft with minimal residual color on her ends.

Here Dawson shares the HOW TO:

Formulas used:

A: Wella Blondor powder lightener w/ 40 volume and Olaplex (making the developer 30 volume)

B: Wella Color Charm T14 with 20 volume

C: Wella lllumina 7/89 with Pastel developer


Step 1: Apply Formula A from root to ends. Process  for about 35 minutes. (NOTE: "Process at shampoo bowl for close monitoring, even though Olaplex is in the formula I wanted to sure to watch the scalp and integrity of her ends.") Lift to level 9 pale yellow. Rinse.

Step 2: Apply Formula B from roots to ends on wet hair. Process for 15 minutes. Rinse. (NOTE: "At this point the hair should be free of yellow tones.")

Step 3: Apply Formula C. Process for 10 minutes. Rinse and Condition with Olaplex step 2. Blow Dry with Oribe Supershine for added moisture. 


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