MEN'S HOW TO: Highlights, Zero Fade and Volume

Anne Moratto | August 31, 2015 | 1:52 PM

Danielle Charette (@Danie_Blue82) from Bangs Of Boston (@BangsOfBoston) caught our attention on INSTAGRAM with this detailed men's work. We reached out for her steps and Charette delivered, with details on all her tools, products and, most importantly, technique. We share it all, in her words, below.

"Gregory has been a client of mine for years now," Charette says. "Usually we keep his 4-5N naturally dark brown hair classically trimmed neatly for the office but Greg was looking for a change that would still be professional for the summer.  After a very long consultation I decided on an edgier haircut and style along with a few highlights to brighten him up!"


STEP 1:  Starting with a #2 guard on Wahl Designer Clippers I knocked off the sides and back so there was less hair in my way--he has a ton!

STEP 2: From here I began his highlights, using mostly BW2 Lightener with 20volume as well as throwing in a few foils of Goldwell's 7N with 30volume  throughout, foiling heavier in the front and more sporadic towards the back. Every foil was weaved finely, no slicing at all.  Kept foils under heat for 10 minutes, then allowed to process at room temperature for another 10 to 15 minutes until they looked ready to me.

STEP 3: I removed the foils and shampooed him using Kevin Murphy's Blonde Angel Wash. NO conditioner.  I then did a two-minute Tone/ Soap Cap using the left-overs of my Goldwell 7N Bowl bumped up with a little 10volume just to pull it all together.  Massaged everything together for 2-3 minutes and then shampooed again. 

STEP 4:  Rough dry. I  always fade on dry hair, sometimes even adding talc powder to the client's skin and hair where I'll be fading.  It allows my clippers to glide smoothly.  Wet skin makes my clippers stutter and jump.

STEP F5: Before starting his fade, using my shears I trimmed a few inches off, layering and texturizing the length left up top. For fading, I switched to my Andis Masters Clippers.  Using a #1 guard I went up about two inches from his hairline, then using my adjustments on my clippers side, I faded into the #2 I had previously done earlier, around the entire head, making sure I had a nice even blend. 

TIP:  I use my mirror a lot, turning my clients chair every few minutes as I fade. It allows me to see my lines and my blends from afar clearly. 

STEP 6: From here I took off my guards and faded the bottom inch of the back of his hairline down to a zero.

STEP 7: Once I was done and happy with my fade, I took out my Wahl Peanut and lined everything up, making crisp defined lines.

STEP 8: Going back to my Andis Masters,   I put my #1 guard back on and passed it over his beard, then using my Wahl Peanut I defined Greg's beard and mustache and finished up his lineup.

STEP 9: I sprayed his roots with Kevin Murphy's Body Mass, added Kevin Murphy's Body Builder spray mouse to the rest of his hair, and blow dried everything up and back using a large round brush. 

FINISH: A dime size amount of Kevin Murphy's Night Rider and combed everything into place. Ta-Da!

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