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2 Sombre Formulas & Techniques

Lauren Quick | September 3, 2015 | 8:05 AM

Sombre, or soft ombre, has been a beauty buzzword for a few seasons now, and it's really taking hold with clients across the country. The understated color style allows for an easy transition between seasons and low-maintenance color.

Redken is adding to its Chromatics line to make sombre creation that much easier.

  • Chromatics Mocha 6M: Inspired by hot chocolate and uses warmer tones that complement golden skin tones and medium to lighter bases.
  • Chromatics Mocha 4M: Rich, deep chocolate tone with a touch of red that works well on dark and medium bases. 

"Sombre is a softer, more low-maintenance version of ombre that is universally flattering on all haircolors," says Tracey Cunningham, Redken celebrity colorist. "Redken's new Chromatics Mocha shades help to create a rich base color with highlights that can be toned with the New Shades EQ Gloss natural warm shades, creating a beautiful blended color similar to that of Jessica Biel."

Cunningham uses the sombre technique with Redken's Blur Brush on Redken muses Amber Le Bon, model and DJ, and Ashley Moore, model. The Blur Brush blends two different shades together without disturbing formulas, and finishing with Shades EQ Gloss natural warm shades controls contrast and extends color's lifespan. 

Formulas: Light brown/blonde sombre

Natural level-7 medium blonde with existing highlights

Sombre formula 1
2 oz. 8NA (8.01) Chromatics Ultra Rich
2 oz. 10 vol. Chromatics Oil in Cream developer

Sombre formula 2 
1 oz. 8P (8.9) Chromatics Ultra Rich
1 oz. 10P (10.9) Chromatics Ultra Rich
2 oz. 20 vol. Chromatics Oil in Cream developer

Glaze formula
1 oz. 09NB Irish Crème Shades EQ Gloss
1 oz. Crystal Clear Shades EQ Gloss
2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

Optional base formula
2 oz. 8M Frosted Latte Shades EQ Cover Plus
2 oz. 10 vol. Pro-Oxide Cream Developer

Formulas: Dark brown sombre

Natural level-3 dark brown

Base formula
1-1/2 oz. 6M (6.7) Chromatics
1/2 oz. 4M (4.8) Chromatics
2 oz. 30 vol. Chromatics Oil in Cream developer

Highlight formula
2 scoops Flash Lift Maximum Power Lightening Powder
2 oz. 20 vol. Pro-oxide Cream Developer

Sombre formula 1
2 oz. 08GI Tenerife Shades EQ Gloss
2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

Sombre formula 2 
2 oz. 09NW Cream Soda Shades EQ Gloss
2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

Get the look: Redken's sombre technique

STEP 1: Start in the back left nape section and take a 1/4-inch diagonal back slice and place on a foil. Apply Sombre Formula 1 to zone 1 and into zone 2.

STEP 2: Leaving 1 inch of natural hair, apply Sombre Formula 2 through remainder of zones 2 and 3. Leave out previously colored ends. 

STEP 3: Using Redken Blur Brush, blur formulas together with vertical strokes. 

STEP 4: Drop down next 1/4-inch slice and place on previous section. Repeat application. Complete section and cover with foil to secure. 

STEP 5: Complete opposite side and both front-crown section using the same application. 

STEP 6: Process at room temperature for 35 minutes. 

STEP 7: Shampoo and condition with Redken Color Extend Magnetics. 

STEP 8: Apply Glaze Formula using global application. 

STEP 9: Process at room temperature for 20 minutes.

STEP 10: Shampoo and condition with Redken Blonde Idol.

 

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