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Flat And Overprocessed To Caramel Dimension

Maggie Mulhern | October 16, 2015 | 3:46 PM

Douglas J. Sherman (@Jshermansalon), owner of J. Sherman Salon, Atlanta, Georgia (and a member of the Unicorn Tribe) loves that "Every client I do is a new canvas and always an opportunity to express my creativity whether it be natural tones or intense fashion shades." For this client, Sherman had a chance to express that creativty in a lovely, natural-looking way. "My client had been coloring her own hair for several years, applying a level 4 and pulling it through every time so in some areas it was a bit darker."

Here Sherman shares HOW he addressed the overcolored and uneven shade, offering life and dimension to this otherwise flat head of hair:

STEP 1: Use a back combing and foil technique for a balayage look ("that I learned from Guy Tang on YouTube. Lol I love going to YouTube university!") Split the hair into quads. The 2 front sections are based off her natural part.

STEP 2: In the back take 1/2 inch diagonal sections and backcomb loosely to achieve a somewhat see-through section. Apply Redken Ammonia Free Blonde Icing with 40 volume and Olaplex, focusing mainly on the mids and ends up to the occipital. Then backcomb some sections closer to the scalp and apply the formula higher up for a babylight effect.

STEP 3: Use the same technique in the front, taking diagonal back sections and applying the formula lower in some areas and higher in others. ("I knew I needed to use foils in order to get the amount of lift we wanted because she wanted a high contrast look.") Lift to level 7.

STEP 4: Tone with Redken Shades EQ 6gn and 8n, equal parts, and process for approximately 5 minutes. ("I always WATCH my toners because timing varries on the porosity of the hair.")

 

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