TRANSFORMATION: Going For Depth And Condition

Maggie Mulhern | December 21, 2015 | 5:46 AM

Kelly Pham-Do (@excellenthairsalon), a senior stylist at Excellent Hair Salon & Spa Inc in Fremont, California, says "Kelly came to me wanting a change. She's starting her Masters Program and wanted a more subtle, classy and low maintenance look." Pham-Do points out that Kelly had been blonde for about 5 years and "Used pretty much everything recommended to keep her blonde healthy, but at the end of the day, the bleach was just too damaging. She was tired of all the different tones from the bleach." The ultimate goal for colorist and client was to go darker and get the hair healthier.

Existing conditions : One inch of new growth of a level 3, darkest brown. At the crown was a level 10 with orange bands near the root area. Crown to nape was light red brown.

Concerns: Although she wanted to go dark, she didn't want to go "much" darker. Because she was blonde for so long, she was afraid it would be too dark.

After a small cut, color the hair:

Step 1: Touch up the newgrowth with Matrix Socolor 7AA 2oz+ with 30 volume creme developer.

Step 2: Once finished with the color application, go to the nape area, take back to back thin slices (in foil) and apply Joico Vero K-Pak Creme Lightener + Trionics Higher and Higher enzyme developer. Process for 20 minutes at room temperature.

Step 3: Apply Matrix Color Sync 10CG 1oz+ 8G 1oz +2oz 10 volume developer (as a filler) to the blonde at the crown. Process at room temperature for 10 minutes. (By this time, the highlights at the nape have lifted to a a level 8.)  Rinse well, shampoo lightly. Towel dry.

Step 4: Tone the nape with Redken Shades EQ 9p 2oz+ processing solution for 15 minutes. Rinse, towel dry.

Step 5: Apply Joico Lumishine demi color, 9NV 2oz+ 2oz 5 volume, from scalp to ends. Process for 15 minutes. Shampoo, condition and blow dry.  

"At this point, my client decided she wanted to go darker."

Step 6: Mix Matrix ColorSync 6N 1.5oz+ 8N 1.5oz + 8V  1oz+ 7M 1oz+ 5oz 10 volume. Apply to all the hair from scalp to ends. Process for 15 minutes.  Rinse, shampoo, condition and treat accordingly.

"My client could not be any happier.  She thought she would not like the darker look, but she looovvveeed it!"

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