TRANSFORMATION: Level 5 Box To "Bright and Blonde"

Maggie Mulhern | May 6, 2016 | 8:48 AM

Jen Cappe (@jenviahair) of Fierro Hair Salon (@fierrohair) of San Luis Obispo, California, says, "Chelsea was new client. She told me she was coloring her natural level 7 to a level 5 for the past year. She requested to be as bright and blonde as possible. Having had a previous consultation at the salon, I realized I needed about four hours to accomplish the entire process."

Cappe knew what she was in for.

"My passion for hair started at age 13. Very often I found myself cutting and coloring my friends hair with off the shelf box color and probably kept several salons busy with color corrections!" she says.  

In an effort to master her craft, Cappe finds herself experimenting with different hair techniques. "A couple of years ago I came up with a unique method of applying haircolor. I wanted a way to create an ombre highlight with a soft transition. It became so popular I named it the 'melted highlight'. What makes it unique is that it is a highlight using permanent color and bleach applied at the same time in the same foil. Although the effect is similar to balayage, this technique adds more dimension and detail."

Here, Cappe shares the HOW-TO for this correction:

Step 1: Dry cut taking off about 3 inches to start with a bit more of a clean slate.  

Step 2: Full foil highlight “melting” Wella Illumina 40g 7/81 and 40g with 20 volume into Blondor Bleach with 30 volume. Start with a section of a full highlight permanent color applied to the first 2 inches of the hair closest to the root. In the same foil bleach is applied to the remainder of the hair blending the two colors in the middle creating a melted color effect. A very important step is to sandwich the highlight between two foils to prevent bleeding. Process for about 30 minutes. 

Step 3: To add dimension, balayage all of the hair outside the foils using Wella Freelights with 40 volume. 

Step 4: At the shampoo bowl color cleanse the ends using Wella Blondor with 40 volume adding some extra brightness throughout the ends.   

Step 5: Gloss using Wella Color Touch 20g 10/6 and 10g 9/01 with 60g 1.9 Color touch developer to cancel out any unwanted warmth. 

Step 6: Finish with a fresh haircut styled with Oribe Gold Lust Oil and RandCo Blow Out Balm! 


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