TRANSFORMATION: Going For A "Cooler" Warm

Maggie Mulhern | May 13, 2016 | 2:56 AM

Timothy Michael (@Timothy_michael_hair), a blonde specialist & the owner of Studio 222, Virginia Beach, Virginia, says this new guest originally asked for a retouch. "She had her grown out blonde that was a tad too brassy, with her natural color underneath at the nape. After a good 10 - 15 minute chat I was able to convince the guest too allow me try something a bit different that I thought would not only compliment her but would look a lot more natural and be much less maintenance. I knew this client would look best with a bit of warmth in her hair, but more of a 'cooler' warm."

Here Michael shares the how-to:

Step 1: Section the hair into quadrants based off of her natural part and split from temporal to temporal. Apply full babylights using Redken Flashlift (with Olaplex) with 20 volume developer.

Step 2: Between foils apply thick slices using Pravana 9.22 with 10 volume for a "mocha blonde" tone.

Step 3: Process for 10 minutes, then balayage everything in between using Flashlift and Olaplex with 30 volume,  painting the outsides of every section in between the foils and leaving the midstrand out, "leaving that warmth there to work with later."

Step 4: Process for 35 minutes then rinse and treat with Olaplex 2 for 10 minutes. Shampoo and condition.

Step 5: Tone with Redken 9V (Platinum Ice) for 15 minutes. "I did this to cut out a lot of the 'pale yellow' warmth and to gently neutralize any of the other warmer tones left where I did not balayage. This resulted in a nice warm beige summer blonde mixed with some cooler beige and violet tones, leaving a TON of dimension."

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