The Journey: From Black to Blonde - And Everything In-Between

Maggie Mulhern | August 31, 2016 | 2:47 PM
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Melissa Flathers (@melissadoesyourdo) a Pravana Certified Colorist at Innov8 Hair Design, Long Beach, CA., says "This client has been coming to me for about 3 years now. Her natural color is a level 6 auburn and has a very fine texture." Last fall the platinum colored client decided to color her own hair, using black box color. Flathers did not see her again until the beginning of March. "She said that she did eventually want to go back to platinum, and she realized that it would be a slow process."

Here Flathers shares the details about the journey:

-First appointment: I glazed her all over with Redken Shades EQ Cream 03NA + 10 volume with 1/8 oz of Olaplex. After processing for 20 minutes, I rinsed and applied Olaplex #2 for 20 minutes and then shampooed with Redken Color Extend Magnetics. 5-6 inches of length was removed.

-Second appointment: Her hair still wasn't ready to be lightened. I used the natural sun fading of her hair to get her to a level 5 warm brown by using equal parts 5.5 + 6.35 and Zero Lift developer from Pravana, blended with 1/8th oz Olaplex. After processing for 25 minutes, the hair was rinsed, and Olaplex #2 was applied for 20 minutes. The hair was shampooed, conditioned and styled using Loma hair products.

-Third appointment: Time to lighten. I applied Pravana Pure Light lightener + 40 volume and 1/8 oz of Olaplex 2" from her scalp through her ends, and covered her with a cap to process. After 20 minutes, I applied Pure Light + 30 volume + Olaplex to her root, covered with a cap, and processed for an additional 20 minutes, for a total of 40 minutes, lifting a level 8 orange-yellow.  I shampooed and brought her back to my chair to tone. I DID NOT apply Olaplex #2 at the bowl because I also used Olaplex in the toner. I toned her with equal parts Pravana 8.43 + 7.43 + Zero Lift on the root, and equal parts 8.43 + 9.04 + Zero Lift on the midshaft and ends. The hair was processed for 20 minutes, rinsed and treated with Olaplex #2 for 20 minutes. The hair was then shampooed, conditioned and styled with Loma products.

-Fourth appointment: I used Pure Light + 30 volume + Olaplex on the midshaft and ends. Processed for 20 minutes,  and applied the same formula to the new growth, and processed an additional 20. Rinsed, toned with Pravana Express Tones equal parts Beige, Violet, and Clear + Zero Lift to give it some transparency. Processed for 5 minutes, rinsed, applied Olaplex #2 for 20 minutes, shampooed, conditioned, and styled using Loma products.

-Fifth appointment: I applied Pure Light + 30 volume + Olaplex to the new growth, covered with a cap, and processed for 30 minutes. I then applied Pure Light + 20 volume + Olaplex to the pre-lightened hair and processed an additional 20 minutes, for a total of 50 minutes. The hair was rinsed and toned with Express tones 1/4 Ash + 1/4 Violet + 1/2 Clear + equal parts Zero Lift and Olaplex and processed for 5 minutes. After rinsing, Olaplex #2 was applied for 20 minutes. The hair was then shampooed, conditioned and styled with Loma products.

"It's important to note that we did cut her hair each time, and I did not use any heat during my processes to protect her hair's integrity as much as possible. I would not have embarked on this journey without the help of Olaplex. She does still have a slight stain to her hair that was previously black, but it's light enough now that toner neutralizes it. We are both incredibly happy with the outcome and relieved that the black came out of her hair fairly easily. From now on, we'll just be maintaining her roots and changing up the tone as she sees fit."

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