HOW TO: Helping Your Client Grow Out Her Natural White/Gray Hair
When Minnesota JUUT SalonSpa colorist Bryce Sampson was tasked with helping a client grow out her natural hair color, he created a color formula to show off her silver, white strands and stop box coloring her hair for good!
This is his client, Monique. She had been box coloring her hair for years and wanted to be able to grow out her natural white/silver locks. "The stylist, Dovey, and I had talked about her final hair cut and we had thought something sassier would suit her more," Sampson says.
CONSULTATION: "Monique was one our models for our final test out, to get out of the training salon and start working in the salons. Transformations were a lot of fun, a really good learning experience, and very rewarding. Monique and I had discussed this color process several weeks prior to the big day, and she had planned on spending all day with us. Between her, and the other 3 models I was coloring, and Dovey was cutting and styling, we were there for 12 hours. I started with Monique's Color at 9am and she got her final cut and blow-dry at 8pm."
First step was a color cleanse, (Aveda Enlightener with 20-volume developer and Shampure. "When applying the mixture I ignored her new growth, because we were looking for a natural blend," Sampson says. "I got her ends to lift up to a Level 9 everywhere and then rinsed her hair with cool water and did a Botanical Therapy Treatment, I let this process for a full 20 minutes."
The second step was to tone her pre-lightened hair. While still at the shampoo bowl, he applied a semipermanent toner of 40g. øN + 40g. 10n + 80g. Creme Developer. "I knew with the porosity of her hair that I shouldn't put anything in her hair to make it silver at this point," he says.
The next step was to add the dimension through her ends that her new growth had presented him with. Her hairline all around her head was her natural dark blonde, and her crown had completely whited out.
"We did a full foil using Enlightener with Creme Developer and 20g. 6n + 2g. lBB + 1g. dBG with 10-volume developer. The lowlight was used mostly around her hairline," he says. "Lastly we rinsed her foils out, and did another Botanical treatment. After the botanical, we blow-dried her hair and applied her silver toner of 40g. 10n + 2g. dBV + Creme Developer. Process 20 minutes, rinse, and voila!"
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