Expert Advice

HOW-TO: White Hot Platinum Blonde by Sebastian Professional

Victoria Wurdinger | April 8, 2014 | 12:35 PM

Marylle Koken

Sebastian Professional Design Team and Salon Owner The Harlot, Venice CA

THE VISION: “I wanted to explore the capabilities and functionality of the Cellophanes line, using artistic chemistry,” Koken says.


Natural Level 6 with previous highlights

Formula 1: Wella Blondor cream, mixed in a 1:1.5 ratio with 10-volume developer

Formula 1a: Wella Blondor cream, mixed in a 1:2 ratio with 20-volume developer

Formula 1b: Wella Blondor cream, mixed in a 1:1.5 ratio with 15-volume developer

Formula 2: Wella Illumina, ¾ of 10/ + ¼ of 9/60, mixed in a 1:1.5 ratio with 6% Emulsifying Lotion

Formula 3: Sebastian Professional Cellophanes, mix 1 part Clear, 1 part Champagne Blonde and a large drop of Cranberry Red.

Formula 4: Cellophanes Ice Blonde

Formula 5: Cellophanes, 1 part Clear + a dime-sized amount of Sapphire Blue

STEP 1: Apply Formula 1 to the midshaft area and emulsify. Quickly apply Formula 1a to the roots and emulsify. After 15 minutes, apply Formula 1b to the ends and emulsify. Watch for an even pale yellow.

STEP 2: Use a bottle, apply Formula 2 to all the damp hair. Massage it through from roots to ends, process 10 minutes, rinse.

STEP 3: Take a 1-inch, ear-to-ear parting around the front hairline, and divide it into panels. Create two panels on each side. Position a foil under the panels, and apply Formula 3 from the midshaft to the ends, to emulsify the color for a melded effect. As you work, seal all the panels in the foil packs. Then take a 1-inch wide, 4-inch long section on top, divide it into 2 panels and repeat the application procedure. Once you have 6 sealed foil packs, tap each one twice, using a flatiron set on low heat.

STEP 4: Apply Formula 4 to the hair in-between the foils, and comb through.

STEP 5: Apply Formula 5 to all the free ends. Use fingers to paint on the color, staggering the starting points. Process under heat for 15-20 minutes, and rinse under cold water as you remove the foil packs.

Photography: Jem Mitchell

HOW-TO: White Hot Platinum Blonde by Sebastian Professional

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