HOW-TO: 2 Long Layered Haircuts (With Steps!) by Frank Barbosa
Celebrity Hairstylist Frank Barbosa and René Furterer recently presented a craft class on the art of cutting long layers at Vidov Salon in NYC, the latest stop for the René Furterer Academy, the brand’s touring education platform.
Demo 1: Saranda
Emphasizing the importance of the client consultation, Barbosa explained, “As hairstylists, we want to energetically align ourselves with our clients. As the client sits in your chair and you’re combing through her hair, ask what products she’s using, find out what she is expecting from a haircut, make recommendations.” Model Saranda said, “I would like to keep my length, I want to keep volume and feel that nice layering would add volume. I’d also like to be able to put my hair in a ponytail.”
Barbosa showed how to do do a wet to dry look, using René Furterer LISSEA thermal protecting smoothing spray as his cutting lotion. "I’m going to be doing four basic vertical partings, clipping off each section down the middle, front and back."
Here, Barbosa explains the step-by-step process:
STEP 1: "Starting with the lower section in back, section by section I take a one and a half-inch section, and show the client; this is done to include the client in the cutting process. I take the section; hold it at a 90-degree angle from the head and using my Washi shears with textured tips, I point-cut that length of hair. I do not blunt-cut layers. Blunt cuts are dated and all you see are the layers. Think Janet Jackson in The Pleasure Principle or Ellen Barkin in the ‘90s. When you point cut, you cut from the way out, not the way in. Point-cutting adds movement and makes layers imperceptible."
STEP 2: "Next, using a small round brush I blow-dry the lower section in back, taking one and a half-inch wide sections, and section by section, lifting the brush up and out from the base of the neck to create body in the back. When each section is almost dry, I twirl the brush mid-shaft three times to give hair a bend. In film we have a short window to get hair ready. Blow-drying sections while I’m cutting adds movement to the hair and speeds up the cutting process. I double and triple book myself, which is why a speedy technique works best for me. I always have two chairs going—a cut like this takes about 45 minutes."
STEP 3: "When the bottom sections are dry, I take down the next parting from the wet section, again, working with one-and-a half-inch-wide sections, this time holding hair at a 45 degree angle. I 'marry' each wet section into the dry section behind it, using it as a guide, a line a demarcation for where to point cut."
STEP 4: "Now I spray sections with René Furterer FIORAVANTI shine enhancing no rinse detangling spray. What I love about René Furterer products is that they’re not heavy—look at the shine and the movement in the blowout! You want to see energy at the ends of the hair, not at the scalp."
STEP 5: "As you cut, it’s very important to look at the client’s profile. If hair is getting too full in back it can make you look like you have no neck. We want to open up the layers around the face to show off the bone structure."
STEP 6: "Twirling the brush acts like a hot roller so you can skip the curling iron process—that means the client goes home with less heat damage. I let the hair cool off a bit before removing the brush. I also have the client bring in her own tools; learning how to use them gives her more confidence."
STEP 7: "When cutting the sides, I bring the sections around to the front of the face and point cut. For body and hold I work in René Furterer VOLUMEA volumizing foam – no rinse. When using this foam you don’t have to rewet the hair and it helps the brush move through hair without tangling. I blow-dry hair away from the face—we want movement to rise above the shoulder, then at the cheekbone."
STEP 8: "Now we move up the head toward the crown, still working with René Furterer VOLUMEA volumizing foam – no rinse. (The VOLUMEA foam is an artist’s product because it disappears into the hair and doesn’t leave hands sticky.) The higher I go, the more creative I get. I hold each one and a half-inch wide section at a 45 degree angle, marry each section into what I did behind it and point cut the ends."
STEP 9: 'Before doing the crown, I take finished S-waves from the lower sections, and lightly snip into the hair, following the S-shape. This brings hair to life. I skim over the top and don’t pull hair too taut. This relieves weight at the ends so it doesn’t feel flat."
STEP 10: "To cut the crown, I drop the crown sections, divide into four sections and section by section, and starting in back bring hair straight up and forward to point cut. To cut hair in front, I make a triangle part in front, then drop the hair an inch below the chin, trim it straight across under the chin and point cut."
STEP 11: "Then I take a wet section and bring it across to me, marry it into the cut section and point cut. You do the same on the opposite side. Then blow-dry away from the face, creating volume at the root. Half-way down the section, twirl the brush."
STEP 12: "Then bring rest of crown sections down hold section at 45 degrees, then to add lift, add VOLUMEA foam, pull each section straight up from the crown, and point cut. Finish with René Furterer VEGETAL FINISHING SPRAY, your working spray, which never stiffens up, and go through hair with a wide tooth comb."
Demo 2: Alex
“Alex has thinner hair than Saranda and there’s some damage,” says Barbosa. “So we won’t be taking as many layers as we did with Saranda. But we are going be creating a more piecey and easy-going look that will help Alex’s hair look fuller.”
STEP 1: "After parting hair in four vertical sections, starting in back, I work in René Furterer KARITÉ leave-in repairing serum. I use sparingly; using the serum helps to seal split ends so hair doesn’t tear and snag during process of cutting, blow-drying with the round brush and combing."
STEP 2: "We basically follow the point-cutting technique of the first look, but blunt-cut the ends of the very bottom layer in back first. We also don’t twirl the brush during blow-drying because Alex wants piecey-ness."
STEP 3: "When I take down the second parting in back, I hold each one-and-a-half-inch wide section straight out from the head in a horizontal line and point cut the ends. This is a great technique for ombre hair because it blends in with the rest of the hair."
STEP 4: "Before cutting and blow-drying each section, I’m using René Furterer LISSEA thermal protecting smoothing spray, FIORAVANTI shine enhancing no rinse detangling spray, LISSEA smoothing leave-in fluid and VOLUMEA volumizing conditioning spray – no rinse. If you ever think you’re overdoing product, just keep hitting the hair with heat from the blow-dryer. The heat of the dryer drives the conditioning ingredients right into the hair."
STEP 5: "When cutting the sides, I redirect the hair toward me, point cut to open up the layers around the face, blow dry and comb down. To marry the sides, I hold hair straight up and snip only what falls between my fingertips. This helps hair to look thicker."
STEP 6: "For layers at the crown, I let down the sectioned off hair, take one and a half-inch wide sections, pull hair all the way back and snip, point cutting and working in a little René Furterer KARITÉ leave-in repairing serum. Then I blow-dry with a round brush. I might also spray a comb with LISSEA thermal protecting spray to help it glide through the hair."
STEP 7: "For front layers I bring hair forward, and spray with LISSEA thermal protecting spray. I bring right side to left, point cut hair that shows between my fingertips; then swing left side to right. The more extending you do, the better the layers will frame the face. Next, I add more VOLUMEA volumizing conditioning spray."
STEP 8: "To get hair at the scalp to stand up, I roll hair around the round brush at the roots, and break up the resulting wave with my hand. Before blow-drying I spray with VOLUMEA conditioning spray, apply KARITÉ leave-in repairing serum to ends and work through."
STEP 9: "Then for hair in front, I comb everything forward. I spray VOLUMEA volumizing conditioning spray at ends and VOLUMEA volumizing foam – no rinse at roots, massaging it into the hair. When blow-drying I work 3 inches from the roots with the brush; for ends of the front section I direct hair away from the face and twist the brush to get bend in the hair."
STEP 10: "Last, I spray hair with René Furterer VEGETAL FINISHING SPRAY and comb through with a wide tooth comb before lightly finessing the point cutting around the bottom layers. The hair now frames the face, falls into a soft V shape in back and looks and feels so much healthier."
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