HOW-TO: "The Contour" Fade Haircut by Jesse Juliano
Master barber at Jesse James Hair Studio, Jesse Juliano (Instagram user cutsbyjessejames) created this men's hairstyle -- a clean fade with short sides and a long top. Here, Juliano offers MODERN the steps on how to re-create the look for your clients.
Cutting the Sides and the Back
Step 1: Start by using the Number 1 clip on your clippers, begin to buzz up the sides up until the temple, creating your guideline for the fade. Follow with the Number 1 clip around the back to the other temple, creating an even guide line.
Step 2: Continue fading with each clip Numbers 1-6 with your clippers with the lever closed to open for each level. Each Number should be brought up about ¼-inch while flicking out with the clippers so you do not create lines in the hair.
Step 3: The neckline is tapered down to skin to create a natural blend. Start with the 00000 blade and create your guideline on the nape bringing it up about 1-½ inches. Continue to fade the 00000 into the Number 1.
Step 4: Blend the Beard into the Number 1 using either clipper-over-comb, shear-over-comb, or clippers.
Step 5: Outline the perimeter with your trimmers creating a crisp, fine detailed line. Follow along the beard as well.
Cutting the Top
Step 1: Wet the hair completely and begin cutting in the front. Consult with your client about the desired length before cutting. Over Direction is necessary so that you can keep length in the front. Use your First cut with the shears as your guideline for the top.
Step 2: Continue cutting straight back from the middle ,then work to the right and then the left.
Step 3: After the basic length is cut on the top, begin to add texture into the hair by point cutting into thick sections. This creates texture, and shorter pieces. It also adds volume to the hair.
Step 4: Add a spray gel and blow dry into the desired style with a round brush. Direct the roots forward while drying to achieve volume when brushed back.
Step 5: Blend any disconnected hair between the sides and the back with buzzer-over-comb, or the scissor-over-comb technique. This must be done after the hair is dried into the desired style.
Styling The Hair
Step 1: Using a Medium Hold Pomade, take the amount of about a quarter into your hand and emulsify thoroughly so it is spread evenly throughout your hands.
Step 2: Apply the product to the hair starting in the front, Pulling the hair upwards in the front for volume.
Step 3: Take a wide tooth comb and smooth the hair.
Jesse Juliano (left) with a client.